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Opinions are like assholes, everyone's got one. But some are worth listening to more than others...

Welcome to my world, my world of turbos, tyre smoke, and tuning...

Tuning cars, driving cars, testing parts, and complaining about everything. It's my job, and a the majority of my non-work life too...

VW/Audi 1.8 20V Turbo swaps in to Mk3 MR2- why it's the best engine swap option, and best value way to own a high performance mid-engine sports car!

3/2/2024

 
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So, what's the story here?

Go back a few years and if someone suggested to me to get a Mk3 MR2, AKA Toyota MR-S, AKA MR2 Roadster, AKA MR2 Spyder I'd have laughed at them, and no doubt said something along the lines of "No way, why would I want one of them slow cars for?". Yet here I am absolutely loving mine and realising how wrong I was about them!

Let's face it though, as standard the looks aren't great, as standard they haven't exactly got any straight line performance, and most of all when you've never driven them so going by purely what you see, they have, especially in the UK, an absolutely awful reputation of just being some car older people own who want an open top "sports car" to potter about in, and 90% of modified ones are absolutely horrendously badly done.
So yeah, all the above, plus my absolute hatred of working on the engines of other mid-engine cars which have been terrible to work on due to lack of access, made me have zero interest in them.

So what changed?
Well one day, my friend of over a decade, and owner of Zurawski Motorsport, Thomas Zurawski, pointed at a Mk3 MR2 that was parked outside the garage next door one day and said "I think I might get one of those, I think they'd be great with the right upgrades". I pretty much dismissed the idea as I was convinced they were crap, but thankfully he ignored me and bought a standard one a few months later.

It all started with a Honda K-Series swap!
His plans for the car meant, of course, more performance, and while his job for decades had been custom race car builds and engine swaps, he didn't want the hassle and just wanted to fit a bolt-in swap, and the internet tells the world a K-swap is king, so he bought a full K-swap kit from the states, and a K24 engine and Type-R gearbox, and set to work.
Unfortunately this is where it soon became clear the swap kit was pretty terrible quality for the money spent and needed a lot of changes to be up to his standards, working on the engine once installed would be pretty horrible due to lack of space, and to get it ALL working, ie all the clocks etc etc to make a nice complete car, would be really, really, expensive.
To make it worse, without a lot of work, it wouldn't be that fast, as while people on the internet will tell you a K series will do 500/700/1000/80000384832 horsepower on stock internals with a turbo, reality is different. Big power for a few seconds on a dyno or drag strip on race fuel or E85 is a whole different ball game to actually lasting any real road or track use on pump fuel, and even the K-series specialist tuners in the UK were all reluctant to tune it on stock internals past 375 horsepower or so on pump fuel.
Fact is, while the heads flow incredibly so power potential is insane, stock internals, even stock block, is not very strong, and stock compression ratio is very high for boost and pump fuel, hence why so many people find their stock internal pump fuel turbo ones scattered all over the ground in no time, despite the amazing power they see people make on YouTube.

The came the diesel...
Thomas was constantly complaining about how badly the K-Swap stuff all fitted, how expensive it was getting, and so on, and kept saying "I should've just fitted that 1.9TDI on the floor there, I bet I could get it in in 10min and would fit much better" which to be fair was getting on my nerves, so I said "Go on then, prove it!" and he did lol.
He pulled the K24 out and within literally 10min he had a VW 1.9TDI and 6 speed 02M gearbox in place in the MR2 engine bay on mock up mounts!
As soon as we saw how well it fitted I think both our minds was instantly made up, he put the K-Swap stuff for sale, and he cracked on with the 1.9TDI swap! Everything fitted amazingly well and Thomas got the entire setup working so it worked like factory, including the factory clocks etc, and with some very basic upgrades it made 230 horsepower and a ton of torque and was mega fun to drive, video review of it here...
I didn't want a TDI engine one, but driving this car made me realise these cars were AWESOME, and gave me an idea...

After driving this car I was a changed man, from not understanding why someone would want one to wanting one instantly, so I was on the lookout for one straight away!
Thing is, I'm not a diesel person, but I thought, if that engine will fit, and seeing as there was literally masses of room spare around it, a 1.8 20V Turbo engine might too...

Well I was 100% sure the gearbox would fit as they are both the 6 speed 02M, and I was 95% sure the engine bolted up to the same mounts as the 1.9TDI as I knew the engines are closely related (a 1.9TDI crank can fit in a 1.8T block and it's also part the reason the 1.8Ts are so strong, much like 2.5 5cyl diesel Audis are very interchangeable with the 2.2 5cyl petrol blocks), and the way Thomas had made the mounts to put the engine in the CORRECT place (this is where most engine swaps go wrong- Whacking an engine in a bay is easy, getting it in the BEST place is the hard bit, and why so many engine swaps fit so badly and are horrible to work on!) it seemed like there would be plenty of room for the manifolds, so we had a go, and...
It was AWESOME!
The engine was an unopened stock engine, it made 265 horse and 300lbft on the dyno at 15psi (actuator was weak so that's all I could get) and it was a weapon, Dragy proven times of 0-60mph in 4.3seconds (with a 1.8sec 60ft on the street on 205 wide tyres), and 0-100 in 9.0seconds, faster than even what Evo magazine timed a £80,000 Porsche 997 GT3 at on massive semi-slicks back when it was new in 2007!
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It was CHEAP too!
A mid-engine RWD car with the same acceleration as an £80k Porsche GT3 but the cost was, well, about £3500-4000! I cobbled loads of bits together such as the exhaust, intake, turbo setup, chargecooler, and so on from bits I already had lying around, and conversely spent good money on the parts that are indispensable for the swap, ie mounts, gear linkage, driveshafts, etc, and that, combined with the fact you can pick up 1.8Ts and 02M 6 speed boxes for pennies (I reckon I average £100 each over all the ones I've bought), it was a performance bargain. Even today, using the Zurawski Motorsport engine swap parts, I reckon £5000 is easily do-able, and £6000 without even trying. And nothing for that price is going to be as quick, especially when this is an all-rounder, not just straight line fast, but a proper awesome handling mid-engine weapon. The complete 1.8T engine and 6 speed box setup only weighs 5kg more than the factory 1ZZ engine and 5 speed gearbox. Absolutely no handling change, just a power transformation!

And people seeing the awesome results of this conversion accidentally created a business out of it!
These cars were built purely for fun, for me and Thomas to have the cars we wanted, had zero thought about making money for it, we built them how WE wanted them, but others saw them and wanted them too, and now because of that, Thomas makes and sells the entire kit for anyone who wants it!
It's a bolt-in kit, no need to modify the subframe or bulkhead like on so many other swaps, everything works like factory, all the clocks, ABS, PAS, OBD2, even the check engine light, and its EASY to fit and work on- People have done the swaps on their driveway and with a lift it can be done in a weekend if you had all the parts and skills.
The fact it's easy to live with an repair is the main thing for me personally. I don't care how fast a car is, if its expensive and hard work to fix, I don't want it.
But with this swap the manifolds, turbo, alternator, starter, clutch, gearbox, cylinder head, sump, cambelt, water pump, literally EVERYTHING can be accessed and removed without removing the engine at all, unlike even the factory engine, never mind most swaps where servicing becomes a nightmare. Even the driveshafts can be removed without unbolting any suspension arms, unlike the factory ones.
And as the 1.8T and 02M box is so incredibly common, genuine parts are cheap and usually in stock at your local motorfactors, complete used engines and boxes are super cheap, and there's no end of tuning options and parts, all for amazingly good prices.
I didn't choose a 1.8T for no reason- I did as I know that for tuning, the prices, availability, and results, are better than anything for what you spend.


SWAP KIT PRICES!

These are the current prices for the kit bought directly from Zurawski Motorsport at the time I write this- MARCH 2024

Custom motorsport driveshafts- £800 
These are made by a top UK motorsport driveshaft manufacturer to our specs, and uses OE VW/Audi inner CVs and Toyota (albeit not MR2) outer CVs. These also bolt on without unbolting suspension components, unlike the factory ones.

Full engine and gearbox mount kit, plus gear linkage adaptors- £600
Made from TIG welded 316 stainless steel rather than painted mild steel like other swap kits, and fully CAD designed, these mounts have a lifetime warranty and fit directly to the original Toyota rubber mounts, meaning replacing or uprating the rubber section of the mounts is easy should you wish.
The gear linkage adapters means you use your original Toyota shifter and shifter cables, unlike many other swaps that require you to change them for custom parts.

Drive-by-wire throttle pedal adapter- £40
This swap replaces the factory Toyota cable throttle with a much more sophisticated DBW throttle from a VW/Audi, and this adapter plate allows it to bolt up directly to the MR2 chassis in place of the stock pedal.

Coolant pipe mods- £150
While the factory MR2 cooling system is incredibly efficient, to make it work with a 1.8T needs a few clever changes, and that's what this kit allows to happen.

Fuel system mods- £60
The factory Toyota fuel system is a non-return system, this allows you to convert it to a return system and includes the correct length fuel feed and return line to suit the factory 1.8T fuel rail.

3 inch (76mm) 316 stainless steel full turbo back exhaust system, inc sports cat and de-cat pipe- £800
Designed for the factory K04 turbo, this is proper 316 stainless steel unlike the poorer quality 304 of most aftermarket exhausts, and features a flex pipe, straight through silencer, and 400 cell sports cat and de-cat pipe.

Air-water chargecooler kit inc mounting bracket and boost pipes- £800
Huge air-water chargecooler rated at 800bhp+, with a mounting bracket that fits to the OEM Toyota gearbox mount, complete with all boost pipes to fit from the factory K04 turbo and factory inlet manifold, and flange to bolt the factory MAP sensor to.
This is a kit that genuinely works, unlike so many of the utterly useless intercoolers people attempt to use on K-swap and ZZ turbo setups!

Custom 3in true cold air intake inc K&N filter- £400
Another massive failing of most turbocharged MR2s is them sucking huge amounts of hot air due to air filter position and the factory side ducts not actually forcing any air in to the bay at all (tested and proven!).
One solution is this, which mounts the air filter and MAF sensor outside the engine bay for true ambient air, and has a 3in pipe going all the way to the turbocharger inlet.

Trigger wheel kit inc new crankshaft damper- £200
A vital part of making the engine conversion work in the car like it was fitted to the MR2 from the factory is this trigger wheel kit. This consists of a 316 stainless steel sensor bracket, brand new crank damper with custom trigger wheel and alternator belt to suit.

Custom hybrid wiring loom- £600 if supply donor looms, £700 without
To make the conversion as easy as possible a loom is available that allows the factory 1.8T engine and ECU to plug in to the factory MR2 body loom and have all the sensors and clocks and so on working like a factory car would.
The loom is a hybrid of a factory 1.8T and MR2 engine loom, and is almost completely plug-in, with just a few wires left to connect which are supplied fully labelled for easy fitment.

ALL THE ABOVE IS INTENDED FOR FITMENT WITH THE '225 SPEC' 1.8T ENGINE WITH ITS FACTORY K04 TURBO ETC ETC AND THE 02M QUATTRO GEARBOX, IE THE MK1 TT OR MK1 S3 ENGINES, BUT UPON REQUEST CAN BE MODIFIED TO SUIT ANYTHING OR BUILT TO ANY SPEC AND/OR POWER YOU REQUIRE!

BUT HOW DO YOU FIT IT? WELL IT'S EASIER THAN ANY OTHER SWAP, BUT I DON'T NEED TO EXPLAIN, AS I CAN SHOW YOU, HERE, IN THIS ULTRA DETAILED 4-PART SERIES!
IN FACT, HERE'S A FULL PLAYLIST ON THE SUBJECT OF FITTING THESE ENGINES, HERE!
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SO... WHY a Mk3 MR2 anyhow rather than something else? And why a 1.8T engine? Well I'm glad you asked...
 Right, so first up, let's talk about the Mk3 MR2 itself.
Why not a Mk1? Well, old and rusty for a start. Pretty cool, but aside from preferring the looks, zero advantage over these. Actually a bit heavier too.

Why not a Mk2? Well, these are defo most peoples favourite, but they are also the ones that made me not really want a MR2, as I thought they were all like that. I've owned one and driven loads, inc well modified turbo ones, and they're by FAR the heaviest (1200-1300kg!), absolute bastards to work on due to the engine bay layout etc, and I don't like how they handle at all.

How a Mk3 MR2 feels and handles vs a Mk2 is night and day, it feels like a proper lightweight great handling go-kart of a car, because it is. Weight is 975kg, and while it's mid-engine and RWD, its very progressive on the limit, not snappy at all like Mk2 MR2s and a lot of other mid-engine cars. It feels very much like a MX5 when on the limit, where you can transition from under to oversteer at will just with small changes to steering and throttle. I was pretty amazed, so much so I fancy taking one to a drift day.
Anyone who uses the 'snap oversteer' excuse for crashing one in fairly normal driving like you see so often, is lying. Yeah you can oversteer and crash them like any other, but there's no sudden snap oversteer, they are not the most forgiving car, but don't feel any worse than a MX5 in my opinion.

The amount of traction they have, which is another level to a front engine RWD car, and of course a FWD, and the way they handle massive power increases, are pretty incredible too. Even at 300+ they are insanely fast, scary to most people, but it doesn't make it an out of control beast, they handle power great.
Stock brakes are great, stock stuff with good pads are plenty for even track use most the time. Stock suspension is awesome too if the geometry is decent, though uprated ARBs transform it. Even the stock cooling system is amazingly good- You won't overhead one unless something is very wrong.

As they are popular track and race cars worldwide, there's every suspension and brake upgrade you could ever want available for these, as well as lightweight panels, cages, and more, so you are never going to struggle getting the bits you need.

One pretty unique thing is EVERY body panel, even the rear quarters, unbolt! Almost no cars exist where the rear quarters unbolt, but these do, which can make working on them and fixing them much easier.

Oh, and as cars go, they're amazingly un-rusty. Often look like crap underneath due to surface rust, but that's all it is. Pretty rare to have actual holes.
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What's the other options if you want a relatively modern lightweight (ie sub 1000kg) mid-engine car? Or even a lightweight front engine RWD car?
Not much! Which is a big thing about these, they're pretty much in a class of their own. Lotus Elise and Exige of course, and they are super light, but also 10 times the price, and ridiculously small inside which can be a real ballache. But mostly, the price, the big big price. That money spent on a Mk3 MR2 would make it far faster than any Lotus.
MGF? Shite.
MX5, front engine so nowhere near as good for traction and power handling, and rusty too. But good. Just not as good as these. And I love tuned MX5s and have owned 6.
Everything else? Crazy money or doesn't exist.

So what is BAD about the Mk3 MR2 (aside from the engine)?
I mean, nothing's perfect...

Not that much to be fair, let's make a list for this one.
  • The 'scene' for them in the UK is pretty terrible, but if you care about that you shouldn't be buying one.
  • The subframes are made of tin foil and can rust. Easy and not expensive to replace.
  • Roofs are easily torn, but brand new ones are about £400 inc fitting I think from a place in Wales, or go hard top which they generally sell for £900-1100.
  • Suspension arm bushes and bolts can sometimes seize, but no different to most cars in that regard.
  • The handbrake is junk. Literally rubbish. Refirb' calipers and new genuine Toyota cables will make it good enough to pass an MOT, but it won't ever be 'good'!
  • Honestly, I can't think of anything else if we talking performance/driving/owning related stuff. It's one of the most hassle free cars I've had.
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So! Why a use a 1.8 20V Turbo VW/Audi lump over pretty much everything else that could've been fitted? Well, sit back, and let me tell you a story...

Chapter 1- Why NOT the other popular options there are kits for...

1ZZ Turbo- No, just no. Spend a lot of money trying to make a fairly mundane engine fast, and the results are the same. Disappointing performance for the money and a transmission that is too weak to handle it anyhow.

2ZZ swap- Without looking in to it, it sounds easy, like it would be a straight swap, hey presto, another 50 horsepower. But practically nothing fits, so it's a way bigger and more expensive job than it seems, with most companies charging the same or more to fit one of these than we would for a 1.8T swap!
The 2ZZ makes a Honda engine feel like a V8 in comparison too due to it's insanely peaky powerband. It's as slow if not slower than a stock 1ZZ until 6500rpm, then wakes up a bit from then on, but still not that fast. So unless you're kicking the absolute shit out of it, it's as slow or slower than stock.
2ZZ turbos can make serious power, but never seem to be as good in power or reliability as other options for the money spent, and still have to deal with the weak Toyota transmission too. Not worth it IMO.

K-Swap- Well, this whole thing started with a K-Swap remember! Don't get me wrong, they're amazing engines capable of ridiculous power. The cylinder head is a masterpiece. But for the money it costs to make any given amount of power, and with any given amount of reliability, a 1.8T is way cheaper, especially taking in to account a suitable transmission to handle the power.
When fitted to a MR2 it is very cramped and hard to work on, even removing the alternator is a serious mission, making it not fun to live with, and they are very noticeably bigger and heavier than the 1.8T also.
Honda fanboys won't agree, but feel free to prove to me your engine on pump fuel is making more power than mine for the money spent, or even better, show me your K-swapped MR2 that's faster than mine for the money spent. I'll wait. So far all the ones with similar or slower proven performance have had multiple times as much money spent on them than my 'inferior' 1.8T. What's better technically and what's better for the money is two different things, hence none of us are driving around in F1 engine swapped cars.


2AR swap- Only really seen these in the USA, but don't really see the appeal unless you really want to keep it Toyota powered for some odd reason. The fact it makes the exhaust side face the bulkhead makes turbocharged versions an absolute mess too.

Various Toyota V6s- I know people like 'exotic' V6 noises (I think V6s sound like shit personally), but these are a massive pain to fit, insanely expensive if you pay someone to do it, and the end result is wildly mediocre power and a car that's one of the most horrendous things to even service you can think of unless you've made a removable rear bulkhead, which very few do. Not for me thanks.

Chapter 2- Why I think the 1.8T is by far the best option.

​I think it's time for some more bulletpoint action...

  • If done RIGHT (Seen a couple that others had done in the past which were horrendous) with the Zurawski Motorsport mount kit, they fit AMAZINGLY. They fit much nicer than the factory 1ZZ engine. Access to everything, literally everything, in the bay, is much nicer than both the factory engine and even the factory cars the 1.8Ts came in. It's like Toyota designed the bay for these engines and this mount kit. And for a car you have to live with and work on, that's a really big deal.
  • The transmission is one of the strongest standard transverse boxes there is. The 02M is massively strong, and when fitted to a car 300-400kg lighter than what it's fitted to OE, it has even less issues. While there's countless upgrades available for it should you want to, even my one with 514 horse and drag radials has zero issues using a completely standard 02M box and heavy duty gearbox oil. Should you want DSG then the DQ250 from the Mk5/6 Golf GTIs bolt straight up too, and again, with the right upgrades, can hold insane amounts of power.
  • It's CHEAP and COMMON. These engines and gearboxes are everywhere, they were fitted to so many vehicles for so long you're never in short supply. I think the average price I pay for a bare 1.8T engine is £100 and the same for the gearboxes. Sometimes more, sometimes less. As this swap uses the 02M Quattro box, and it is so common and so rarely breaks, these tend to be the cheapest ones you find too. But once you have one of them, you can swap the bellhousing in 5min on to any 2wd 02M off a 1.9TDI or anything else and can use it on this swap.
  • Parts are ridiculously common and cheap, both standard parts and upgrades. Literally no end of tuning parts, anything you want and more, and the engines are in so many vehicles that normal service parts, sensors, etc, are in stock at your local Eurocarparts etc. Try that with a Toyota or Honda or any other engine, no chance.
  • The factory ECU and associated parts are great. Wideband lambda and twin knock sensors as standard. Factory coils that can handle 600bhp+ with ease. Drive by wire throttle. Very tunable factory ECU that can be tuned to serious power and can have launch control and switchable maps as standard.
  • It's a great engine design. 5 valve per cylinder, high angle intake ports normally only seen on race engines, big exhaust ports, super strong block, and a very simple overall design that's easy to rebuild yourself. I like it a lot.
  • Easy power and torque. The factory K04 turbo can do 280-300 horse depending how friendly the dyno is, but is on boost practically off idle, giving massive torque right from the off. Even a stock 225-spec engine with the Zurawski Motorsport kit will make 260-270 horse and similar torque with just a good ECU map, which is more than enough for most in a light car like these.
  • BIG power is surprisingly easy. While you'd want to upgrade the rods beyond about 300 horse, most standard parts are very strong and capable. My own engine making 514 horse on pump fuel has standard crank, standard pistons, standard head gasket, standard size 'small' head ports, and so on. The stock block and crank has been pushed to well over 1000 horsepower, for example, the true limits of the engine is unknown, but have been pushed to 1400bhp+ in drag cars. 20V powered cars have gone as fast as 194mph in the quarter mile.
  • Motorsport proven too. Not just drag racing like most engines. 1.8Ts powered the Octavia and Fabia World Rally Cars. 1.8Ts powered the Formula 2 race cars from 2009 on, making 480bhp in 2010. N/A versions of the 20V engine powered the Skoda Octavia and VW Golf F2 rally cars. N/A versions of the 20V engine powered the successful BTCC and ETCC Mk1 Seat Leon touring car racers.

Chapter 3- No engine is perfect, so let's talk about the BAD points...

It's well known, but I'll mention it again- The weakest point is the factory rods. 300lbft of torque is about the safe limit, which is MORE than DOUBLE what the 1ZZ and 2ZZ engines make, and twice what a Honda K20 makes, so for a little Mk3 MR2, it's still lots, but it is a weak point.
Problem is as well, thanks to the small standard turbo, it can make 300lbft+ at very low rpm too, and the lower the rpm any torque is made the harder it is on rods, and combine that with many engines being of unknown origin, age, and unknown condition, means running a stock 1.8T on a small turbo near the 300lbft limit is a risk.
It really is a toss of a coin though, I've personally had a TT with a stock high mile 1.8T making 330lbft, way beyond the safe limits, that we constantly kicked the crap out of on track with zero issues. Yet if you're unlucky you could have an engine where the rods have already had a hard life and a much lower level of torque finally bends them.
I've had 300lbft (deliberately capped at that level by the tuner) with a GOOD custom map done on the rollers by Badger5, and it was absolutely fine. But I've also broke rods by turning it up way beyond 300lbft. I've also seen people break them due to bad luck, a map that was a bit too spicy, or unexpected boost control issues etc causing overboost. You can never be sure. I know someone with a low boost K24 turbo setup that's broken 3 engines in a few thousand miles. It can happen to any stock engine.
There's an argument to be said that as long as you use a relatively big turbo that doesn't spool too fast, and you have the engine mapped well so it doesn't exceed 300lbft if you can't help it, especially lower in the rpm range, you can get pretty big power levels with good reliability. I'd like to try, just to maybe 350 or so as I feel that could be safe if done right, but I've yet to try it. The stock rods dyno record is actually over 600 horsepower, but don't be under any illusions that is safe. Personally I think any build 300bhp or more is worth putting rods in, especially as they are so cheap.

Exhaust valves- If you plan on refreshing or rebuilding a 1.8T, put new ones in. Either stock new ones or upgraded ones. Reason is they are a 2 piece design, and while perfectly strong from a power point of view, they weaken with old age and have very occasionally been known to break the head off, trashing the engine in the process, so risking 20+ year old exhaust valves on anything but a stock internal engine isn't worth the risk.

Water pump- Not a bad point, but be aware. The factory water pump is good and reliable, but the plastic impeller wont last for ever, not 20 years for sure, so it's worth fitting a new one before you fit even a stock engine in your car. I didn't and then soon after had to in-situ, which wasn't hard, but would've been a lot easier before and wouldn't have left me calling the AA to recover me either! You can get aftermarket metal impeller ones, but if they ever failed they'd jam the cambelt, wrecking the engine, so sticking to plastic ones is a way safer move.

Err, that's about it? If I think of anything more I'll add it!


HOW DO I GET THIS KIT?!

EASY! Either head over to the Zurawski Motorsport Facebook page- ​www.facebook.com/ZurawskiMotorsport1 and PM them there.
OR drop an email to- [email protected]


LET'S FINISH THIS MAMMOTH WRITE-UP WITH SOME PICS OF THE MR-S GT300 JGTC RACE CARS, WITH THEIR 4CYL TURBO ENGINES, FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLERS, AND GENERAL AWESOMENESS...

Beware what 'experts' you listen to... A funny one...

2/7/2021

 
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The internet, and the tuning world, and especially the tuning world on the internet, is full of shit talkers. No matter if it's people lying to help their their business, or people talking shit because they genuinely believe they're right, there's more wrong than right info out there.
Which is why, aside from a few exceptions from people who have PROVEN to me they know their shit, I only listen to proof, facts, data, whatever- Opinion means zero from 99% of the world to me.

The thing is, a LOT of people, even HUGE groups of people, can be suckered in by someones claims. Fuck, it's how a lot of businesses make money; all based on a lie.

I came across a cracking one recently.
​I don't know the origins of these lies, maybe it's just habitual, but this is someone that a certain group of people treat like a god, and for a LONG time too, many many years, and think is an "Ex F1 Engine Designer" (Is he? Fuck knows, Googling his name finds he's been around the tuning scene for a very long time, but that's it, and what he comes out with doesn't sound like one to me).

I noticed him (without having a clue who he was or what people thought of him) making very confident but dubious comments a while ago on Facebook, but whatever, I ignored them.
But then I saw him slagging off some cheap Chinese inlet manifold, and for quite an odd reason too, so I had to comment, and I'm glad I did. And it went like this...

His comment that finally made me bite was...
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I couldn't resist saying something this time, so I replied...
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He replied in no uncertain terms what his feelings were about this...!
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And went STRAIGHT in there with the big "Do you know who I am?" internet Ronnie Pickering comment...
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So I asked who, hoping he would dig himself a hole, and he reeled off some BIG claims...
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And dig a hole for himself he did, I mean... This is a Mountune Focus WRC inlet plenum....
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So I asked him why 'Dave', who he worked for, used them, if they're so bad and stupid...
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And he makes an excuse, which basically meant his name dropping was meaningless. And also odd, as Mountune's BTCC efforts were mostly on the turbocharged Cosworth YB in the mid 80s on. And yes, the Cosworth YB inlet has trumpets too lol.
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BUT he also claims he worked on the highest power Formula One Turbo engine ever, ie the BMW M12/13. BUT this is the BMW M12/13 inlet, complete with huge trumpets...
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So I asked him about that, and he makes another lame excuse...
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So we end up having a rather odd little conversation where he tried to deflect the argument and said something else that makes zero sense about uneven flow to cyls...
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So he tried the old "If they were so good, why isn't EVERYTHING fitted with them" line...
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Then for some reason he again tried to justify his point by showing what the entire universe knows- That not EVERY engine runs trumpets. No shit Sherlock...
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So of course, I replied with my own picture...
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And after that he unfortunately stopped replying. I think maybe he knew he was rumbled. But he's literally treated like a legit god of tuning among a certain bunch of people, as they believe he's an ex F1 Engine Designer.
Maybe he is? But if nothing else, that proves just because someone has had a job, doesn't mean they are right!

Also, just as it's interesting, here's a few more pics of the current modern F1 Turbo engines take on the inlet trumpets in the plenum thing. This Honda motor uses two big trumpets, adjustable length too, one for each bank of cyls it seems.

FD RX7 dyno comparison-8 cars. 1 dyno. 1 mapper

1/28/2021

 
People make a REALLY big deal about a lot of things when it comes to the specs of tuned cars, but personally, I think most people obsess over the wrong things. 
And turbo brand is one of them. Fact is, contrary to popular belief and sales talk, turbos are not magic, and if the general specs are the same, the general performance will be the same. Exact? Hell no. Similar enough that other factors make a far bigger difference? Hell yes. And this feature shows that above all else I think.

This comparison came about after a friend of mine got his FD RX7 mapped, and it made 600bhp on the dot, and to be fair performs bloody well. But I did wonder what it was like compared to other peoples, as spec wise it wasn't quite the same as what most do.
Luckily it turned out, the vast majority of the UKs powerful rotaries use this same mapper on this same dyno, meaning there's tons of comparable dyno graphs about, so while it's different days, that's no big deal in the UK as it's the same drab weather 247/365, so it's as fair a comparison as humanly possible.

Obviously you'll get people making excuses 'I had a misfire' 'My dog ate my homework' and so on, but the simple fact is ALL of these cars were mapped, and ALL of these results were publicly posted, so there clearly wasn't any massive issues with any of them or they wouldn't have been mapped in the first place. So no excuses!
The only car I know from the list is the HX50 one, and I know that was missing a fire ring in the wastegate so it was leaking like fuck, slowing spool and hindering it holding boost at high rpm, and compression test was showing under 5bar on all rotor faces (not bedded in fully and wide tolerances rather than fucked), but whatever, I expect a few of these cars had minor things like that so no excuses for anyone, it's as fair as a comparison as possible.

To make it comparable, I only bothered with cars that made over 500bhp, and as only one of the cars made serious power below 5000rpm, I only compared above that, as that's before the start of most of the cars performance powerbands begin anyhow. 

​And here's the graph...
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That is a fairly confusing jumble of lines, but I'll do my best to explain it all to you...

Two cars, both with the biggest turbos and the biggest ports, made by far the least power at 5000rpm, barley over 200bhp.
​Most were in the middleground, and one was already making great power by then, one with small ports, a middle sized turbo, but MOST IMPORTANTLY, a lot of boost.
This boost thing is a funny one, and one you only see really with rotaries and stuff with real lairy cams etc- Basically anything with bugger all low down power when N/A- Basically, the powerband, at lower boost levels, isn't from whenever full boost is (like it is on most milder builds), it's from whenever the ports or cams allow the real powerband to begin, just like N/A.
BUT once you crank the boost above about 1.5bar/23psi, the positive effects of the boost MORE than counteracts this, and you once again end up with an engine that the powerband starts whenever full boost hits, and this car running 26psi shows it well, already over 400bhp at 5k.
The only anomaly here is the brown line, which I had as an engine with big ports, a big turbo, and fairly low boost. Yet seems to be doing well. It's possible I was given the wrong info on this cars spec...

By 6000rpm the big 76mm HKS T51R engine with the giant J ports has woken up, as has the car with the 67mm Holset HX50 25cm and a half bridge, and they're now matching the power of the two street ported cars running BorgWarners.
The EFR equipped car and the one with the big 72mm turbo are 40bhp down by this point.
The 'Anomaly' brown line car (which I'm sure I've been given the wrong spec for!) is about 40bhp up from that middle batch.
And as before, the big big boost small port car is absolutely flying, making over 550bhp already!

By 7000rpm, the situation is getting very different. The big boost small port car has already gone beyond peak power, and is now only in the middle of the pack.
The big port big 72mm turbo car has really woken up and has gone from last to making more power than a car that was making over 100bhp more than it just 2000rpm earlier.
All the BorgWarners are starting to tail off a little, probably due to the fairly small turbine housing choices? Just a guess knowing how they're often chosen, but rotaries do like a big turbine.
The 'anomaly' car is still doing well, but starting to flatten out, which again says to me the spec isn't what I thought it was.
And the two cars with the big turbine flow, the 25cm HX50, and the HKS T51R, are going up like a rocket.
Aside from the unknown 'anomaly' car, the HX50 and T51R cars are 50bhp+ ahead of the rest now.

Another 500rpm and aside from the three with the biggest turbine flow, and decent size ports, ie the 72mm turbo one, the T51, and the HX50 25cm, things are dropping down.
But the HX50 and T51R cars have now both gone 600bhp+ over 50bhp more than the next closest car.

By 8000rpm, while pretty much everyone is at peak or beyond, some cars are still FAST and still well worth revving. The T51R car has just about peaked and is still well over 600bhp, the Holset HX50 is still making 580bhp, and even the 72mm turbo one is doing ok, and would probably have really benefitted from a few more psi boost as it was running 17psi vs the HX50 and T51s 20psi.
The rest, well they're all still making 480bhp+, so FAST still, and defo worth revving out to this rpm, aside from the poor old big boost small port car, which has widly ran out of puff and the power has fell off a cliff, now making barely over 350bhp- In the real world the driver would've changed up at 7500rpm at the latest.

By 8500rpm, only the two 70mm+ inducer turbos on big port engines are still barely dropping, but the next two biggest, 66mm BW and 67mm Holset are still making over 500bhp so defo worth revving them this high.
By now the other four cars aren't even comparable.

By 9000rpm there's only two engines still in the game, albeit past their peaks, and lo and behold they're the two with the biggest turbos and biggest ports.

SO WHAT ENGINE DID BEST? Well, let's compare some averages...

Realistically, on something FD RX7 weight, 'FAST' begins at 400bhp.
So let's look how wide was the '400bhp or more' powerband...

Winner here was one of the ones with the least low down power, because it could hold it up top, the giant J port T51R SPL car! 3250rpm worth of 400bhp+ power band.

Joint second, was the car that was flying from low down, but tailed off big time up top, the smallest port car, and the car with fairly small ports but a big turbo that held on well up top, both with 3000rpm worth of 400bhp+

Joint third was the Holset HX50 25cm car, and the big 72mm turbo car, with 2750rpm of 400bhp+

Here's the full 'how long over 400bhp' results- 
1st- HKS T51R SPL J-Bridge 20psi- 3250rpm
2nd- BW S365SXE 26psi small street port- 3000rpm
3rd- BW S366 15psi Street Port- 3000rpm

4th- 67mm Holset HX50 25cm, 20psi half bridge- 2750rpm
5th- Full bridge, 72mm turbo, 17psi- 2750rpm
6th- BW S400 full bridge 17psi 2500rpm
7th- BW S363 street port 19psi 2250rpm

8th- BW EFR9174 19psi bridge 2250rpm

But 'over 400bhp' is a bit misleading when some made over 200bhp more than that!
So let's look at the average power they made above the magic 400bhp mark, which is probably the BEST comparison of what would be the fastest in the real world, as their powerbands are all fairly close in size...

Well first and last place are the same, but the rest, not so much!

Average power beyond 400bhp...
1st- HKS T51R SPL J-Bridge 20psi- 563bhp
2nd- 
67mm Holset HX50 20psi half bridge- 523bhp
3rd- BW S365SXE 26psi small street port- 518bhp
4th- Full bridge, 72mm turbo, 17psi- 514bhp
5th- BW S400 full bridge 17psi- 511bhp
6th- BW S363 street port 19psi- 489bhp

7th- BW S366 15psi Street Port- 488bhp
8th- BW EFR9174 19psi bridge- 474bhp

What about their average power levels through the rev range when they're at 80% or more of their peak number? Well ok then...
1st- HKS T51R SPL, J-Bridge, 20psi- 599bhp
2nd- 67mm Holset HX50 25cm, 20psi, half bridge- 545bhp
3rd- BW S365SXE 26psi small street port- 528bhp
4th- Full bridge, 72mm turbo, 17psi- 525bhp
5th- BW S400 full bridge 17psi- 522bhp
6th- BW S366 15psi Street Port- 502bhp
7th- BW S363 street port 19psi- 498bhp
8th- BW EFR9174 19psi bridge- 474bhp

So how wide was the powerband when they were over 80% of their peak power? Let's see...
1st- HKS T51R SPL J-Bridge 20psi- 2750rpm
2nd- BW S365SXE 26psi small street port- 2750rpm
3rd- Full bridge, 72mm turbo, 17psi- 2500rpm

4th- 67mm Holset HX50 20psi half bridge- 2250rpm
5th- BW S400 full bridge 17psi- 2250rpm
6th- BW EFR9174 19psi bridge- 2250rpm
7th- BW S366 15psi Street Port- 2000rpm
8th- BW S363 street port 19psi- 2000rpm

SO what hell have we actually learnt from this? Well, that's a matter of opinion to some extent, but I can tell you what I think...

Does brand matter? NO.
The RX7 scene in the UK is allllll about the BorgWarner turbos. Well considering they were generally in the bottom of the lists, and the 'old fashioned' Holset, HKS, and the 72mm (think it was a Turbonetics?) were generally near the top, I think this assumption many have, is wrong.
TBF I've always known this, I said it countless times, but it's how it is, turbos aren't magic, and aside from a few exceptions, technology hasn't changed hugely, so like for like, the wheels, ie the important factor, from any of these brands are within a few % of each other, and the biggest names are often far from the best, just the most hyped.

Boost helps a LOT-
Is it a surprise the car running 6psi more than the rest did better than lower boost cars with similar turbos? No. Boost is king above EVERYTHING else. If you want your car to perform, no1 thing IMO is to enable to to be safe at big boost. Nothing else will gain you as much as big boost can. 

Good turbine flow gives MORE overall gains than faster spool will-
It's only an educated guess of course, but looking at the powerbands, I'd say most of these BorgWarners had pretty small turbine sides, IMO too small for a big power rotary, and it shows in the results.
Peppier low down, but then lose out massively overall, giving less overall performance.
If you want low rpm performance, I'm not sure a rotary is for you.
Perhaps the clearest example of this is the car with "The highest tech" turbo, the EFR9174. At £1500+ it was probably the most expensive, over three times the HX50 for sure, was a ball bearing, billet wheel, stainless housing, Indy Car developed, proper bit of kit. Yet was near the bottom of the list for everything, despite being 75bhp up from the big T51 at 5000rpm.
And why? The 74mm turbine wheel, which is one of the smallest if not the smallest in this test is going to be one factor. Possibly compounded with a small A/R housing, as that seems to be the done thing with a most UK rotaries.

You gain MORE overall performance building for a high rpm powerband than a low rpm one-
​Again, it's all about the flow. Big ports might kill low rpm performance, but what it loses low down, providing you have the rest of the spec to match, you will MORE than gain up top. Fuck, the T51R J Port car was TOP of every chart, all the averages, widest powerband, despite having the LEAST low rpm power...!

Your turbo spec needs to match your engine spec-
Big turbo and small ports, small turbo and big ports. It's a mismatch that doesn't really work. Sometimes can kill the performance at both ends of the graph, giving you less spool than you expected, but less top end too.
The EFR is probably the best example of this one again too. Decent amount of boost, big ports, but with a fairly small turbine side on that turbo, it stayed near the bottom of the pack from low to high rpm.

SO WHAT ONE WOULD I CHOOSE?
From these results alone? The T51R SPL car, without doubt. It kicked ass.
It might not come alive until after 5000rpm, but it's right up there with the rest of the pack by 5750rpm making over 400bhp, but makes over 500bhp 750rpm later, over 600bhp 750rpm after that, and holds over 650bhp to the 9000rpm limiter, and no doubt would've carried on making massive power to 10,000rpm if they turned the limiter up. And at only 20psi too. Biggest power, biggest powerband, biggest averages, biggest rpm, it just wins everywhere aside from low rpm power.
But if you want that because you don't understand what gears are for, go buy a diesel.

The BIG boost car would be massive fun on the road, a great laugh, super drivable and a tyre smoker, but the fact it's on it's ass beyond about 7.5k is hard for me to accept from a rotary.

Bang for your buck, it's the HX50 car. A turbo you can get for £500 brand new. That fits to an off the shelf old skool Greddy manifold (most BWs need different/newer manifolds otherwise the turbo hits the intake manifold), and so on.
Since this dyno a lot of things have improved on the car- Mostly a better wastegate setup that doesn't massively leak, and a better intercooler, so I'm keen to see how it goes next time it gets mapped on that dyno, and I can show you comparison data in a later post about that too...

Cheers.
Stav

stav-tech  is more than a website- It's on YOUTUBE too!

1/19/2021

 
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You like cars, and car videos, but don't like clueless bullshit and channels where the only tuning is basically chucking a ton of money at an expert and then the channel taking the credit?
Want to see proper 'Built Not Bought' cars? Cars that, for the money spent on them, are actually FAST? Well, that's my channel.
The StavTech YouTube channel- 
www.youtube.com/c/StavTech

As long as you're not expecting big money BS and award winning cinematography, it should be right up your street.
And to make it easier to check out and keep up with, I've added a page on this website with all the videos on, HERE!!!!!!
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It's still a pretty small channel in YouTube terms at the moment, but it's growing, and I'd flippin' LOVE for it to grow to a level where it's actually making me money, as then I can keep making better and better content for you lot too, so go bloody subscribe!

STAV'S TECH TIPS- THE HOLSET HE221W 360BHP+ CAPABLE AND FAST SPOOLING TURBO CAN BE EASILY FITTED TO STANDARD SUBARU, VOLVO, AND SAAB, EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND DOWNPIPES! (AND MANY MORE CARS TOO!)

10/2/2018

 
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Fitting an uprated turbo to a cars standard exhaust manifold is often expensive and with a pretty average result at the end of it too, especially when you have a turbo setup with oddball turbine inlet and outlet flanges and don't want to change them to custom ones to suit the new turbo.

This is especially the case with Volvos, Saabs, and Subarus (And others! Read on for that), and the typical replacement hybrid/upgrade turbos from the stock TD04 turbos are both expensive and, well, a bit of a small improvement on the whole.

Well, while researching other things and thinking about upgrades to my Impreza, I had an idea that seemed like it would work, but seemingly had never been done, so I took the punt and bought a few bits to check, and I was right, and this is exactly what this feature is all about...

THE HOLSET HE221 TURBOCHARGER...

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While I've already talked about the turbo (and countless others!) in THIS MASSIVE FEATURE, let's run through the basics of the Holset HE221W turbo again.
Holset is currently the single biggest turbo manufacturer on the planet at the moment, and while their sole sales plan revolves around OEM fitment turbochargers to commercial/military/seaborne/generator/etc applications rather than the comparatively tiny aftermarket (Though they've supplied turbos to Formula One and Indy Car winning vehicles!), plenty of people have realised how good many of their turbos are, so they've become hugely popular for tuned cars too.

The Holset HE221W is one of their smaller and more compact turbos, but also one of the most impressive, and while it normally comes with the T2/T25/T28 turbo flange and a 4bolt outlet flange, it's actually very easy to retrofit exhaust housings that are the OEM Subaru, Saab, and Volvo fitment.

Capable of up to 380bhp and 3bar boost (see above compressor map) as well as super fast spool and hugely wide compressor map with massive resistance to compressor surge, it is an awesome bit of kit.
Even with a tiny rally inlet restrictor that slows spool and can make many turbo designs absolutely useless, it still works fantastically, as the datalog graph below shows.

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The graph above is on a Ford Sierra Cosworth rally car with the usual 34mm inlet restrictor, comparing a Mitsubishi Evo based turbo, a hybrid Garrett T3 turbo, and 2x Holset HE221Ws, one with a cast wheel, one with an aftermarket billet wheel.
As an example of restrictors ruining the performance of what's normally a good turbo, the Evo compressor  was pretty useless with both power and boost.
The Garrett was a turbo well proven as a good choice with the rally restrictor made good boost, but hit full boost over 1000rpm slower than usual.
The HE221W though, despite being a OEM production unit, made more boost than the physically bigger hybrid Garrett, and spooled 750rpm faster too.
The above is what a HE221W normally looks like with the standard turbine housing (This is just pictures I stole off Compressor Racing as I couldn't be arsed to take even more pics of the one I bought for my car- THIS is the link to the sale if you wanna buy one), and it's about GT28 in physical size, with a 60mm compressor wheel, and has something only GTX turbos of this size tends to have- An anti-surge compressor housing.

"OK! SO HOW/WHY CAN THESE BE FITTED TO SUBARUS, SAABS, VOLVOS, AND SO ON?" I HEAR YOU ASK, WELL...

The answer to this is fairly simple when you think about it, but just like the OEM Subaru, Saab, and Volvo turbos, the HE221W is actually a Mitsubishi TD04 based unit, but the Holset version is far better than all of them, it's like a 'Super' TD04.

And yes, as many of you know, while there's loads of TD04 variations of both compressor and turbine wheel sizes, the HE221W turbine wheel is actually the same overall diameter (but a better flowing design) as the 'big' TD04HL turbine wheel as fitted to the TD04HL-15T on the Saab 9-3/9-5 Aero high performance B235R engines, the TD04HL-13T on the 2.4T 5cyl Volvo engines from the C/S/V70 and similar engines, the TD04HL-15G on the 2.3T fitted to the high performance versions of the Volvo 850, and in fact many older Volvos such as certain 940 turbos with TD04HL turbos.
There's no OEM Subaru turbocharger with the TD04HL turbine wheel, but Mamba and many others sell aftermarket Subaru fitment turbine housings to fit the TD04HL for very little money- HERE is the one I bought.
As well as these, the Porsche Cayenne turbo uses TD04HL turbos, as do many Mitsubishi engines and others too.

So yes, as you've probably guessed already, you can simply swap the turbine housing over from your TD04HL, on to the HE221W, it's just one clamp, super easy, and hey presto, you have a turbo proven capable of up to 380bhp, 3bar boost, mega spool, that fits to the stock exhaust manifold and downpipe, for very little money.

This is similar to what I did on the IHI turbo on my crazy little 660cc Mira if anyone remembers that, in that case I did the same, using the factory turbine housing and after a lot of research found a much newer model car with a far bigger compressor and turbine that bolted straight to the stock housing with no machining, and the result was incredible, about twice the original power, and actually faster spool than stock too.

SO HERE'S THE CAR BY CAR DETAILS...


SAAB!

This one fits like a glove, and even the actuator is in the right position and length.
There's no water cooling on these, so you can blank off your water lines to tidy up the bay a bit, and you'd need to rotate the core (one circlip, super easy) to get the oil inlet and outlet facing the right way, but that's easy.
If anyone's wondering, despite the circle inlet, the turbine flange for the Saab is T2, so easy to use on anything.
​

SUBARU!

This is what started this whole thing, and made me realise it was possible and made me check the Saab and Volvo fitments too.
I've got an Impreza, and I couldn't be arsed going to a full custom turbo setup, but the stock turbo is pretty weedy, and all the aftermarket ones seemed insanely expensive for fairly average result, especially at the sub-400bhp level, so I did some research and realised I could do this, which IMO is unbeatable for the money.
Personally I'd slightly rotate the core to get the oil inlet facing perfectly up, and will need a slightly longer actuator rod (OEM Holset one is adjustable, but most would go aftermarket), but barring that it fits like a glove along with the TD04HL turbine housing for Subarus you can buy on eBay and many other places.
Using this means you can remove some of the OEM water lines too to de-clutter your engine bay. In fact I've removed them on my original TD04 too with no issue, and it's the norm for rally cars to do the same.
​

VOLVO!

The pics below is fitted to the later 2.4ltr turbine housing...
The pics below is fitted to the earlier 2.3ltr turbine housing...

​Fitment to the Volvo housings is much the same as the ones above, but with the added bonus of enabling a HE221W to be fitted to even 1980s Volvo turbo manifolds as they also used this same oddball flange.
In fact, these housings can be used for anyone wanting a HE221W with T3 flange, as that's what these Volvos actually are, just with that strange circular indent- Simply get the flange machined flat and it's normal T3 fitment- That's fairly common the other way around actually, ie machining the flange flat on Volvo manifolds to fit T3 turbos.

The stock HE221W actuator is actually slightly longer than needed on these Volvo housings, but if you wanted the compressor outlet to face the same way as standard (often not if you're running a bigger intercooler etc) you'd need to rotate the housing/core anyhow (dead easy, just a circlip), but as you can see, it'd fit straight to the stock manifold and downpipe.

As well as these two Volvo housings I checked, there's other, older Volvos that use a TD04HL on the Redblock engine, so you can easily fit a HE221W to these too.
​

So yeah, that's it really, a much higher performing and better value solution to bolt-on hybrids than the usual crap, and the route I'm going to be taking on my own Subaru too!

Hope this helps, and make sure you pass it on to all your Subaru/Saab/Volvo owning friends!

Just in case you've missed it earlier in the feature, and I've had 2x messages already, so I suspect some of you have, lol, here's the link to the Holset HE221W like I bought...

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263944005815

Cheers
Stav

ULTIMATE* HOLSET TURBO GUIDE (* PROBABLY)- 2021  UPDATE!

9/6/2018

 
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I like Holset turbos, and not in the bizarre bias or weird belief way a lot of car people like certain things, I’m not like that. I like them because, provided you can source them for the right price, they’re, in my book, and my book is pure fact and no BS or unproven info, the best overall value turbos you can buy, when you consider power, reliability, spool, initial cost, and repair costs.
The thing is, everyone knows I know Holsets well, and because of this I seem to get about 10 questions a day about them, most of which I’ve been asked 100 times before, and this has happened for years, probably over a decade now.
Having said this, I still also constantly see some right bullshit and misinformation about them from other people too, most of which are people with zero experience of them, and unfortunately these days, from certain sellers of them too.

So, to help you guys, and to hopefully reduce the massive amount of questions I get and especially to help reduce the amount of BS I see about them, I’ve decided to make a guide to Holsets and using them on your car...

(Apologies for any minor typos or grammar issues, but I've done this for you lot for free so give me a break lol)
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Who are Holset anyhow?

Holset are a UK turbo manufacturer, one of the oldest and biggest on the planet, and have been owned by Cummins for a long time.
They supplied turbos to the  tuning scene as far back as the 1970s, and have even supplied turbos for Formula One and Indy Car winners too, but on the whole don’t get actively involved in the aftermarket tuning scene.
The reason for this is simple- They’re a massive company and the commercial market is literally millions of times bigger and more profitable, so they generally leave the tuning scene to the smaller brands.
I personally first heard of them in the late 90s early 00s, and initially thought they were a Scandinavian turbo brand, as I purely saw Holsets fitted to big power cars in Scandinavia, cars making more power than I’d ever seen the same engines make in the UK. But no, they’re actually based in Bradford, but have factories all over the UK and in fact the world- Practically every continent has at least one Holset production facility. Holset factories I can think of off the top of my head are in the UK, USA, Brazil, India, and China, but I’m sure there’s more.
Most turbo manufacturers have worldwide production too, with Garrett having Romania, China, USA, Japan, and many more.
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Most are oil cooled, isn’t that a problem?
​

In a word, no. Water cooling on journal bearing turbos serves zero purpose on a performance engine, and even with a BB core the purpose it serves is debatable, and almost all true race turbos with BB cores (WRC cars etc) are oil cooled only too. All water cooling is for on production cars with long gaps between oil changes is to stop the oil in the core overheating, carbonizing, and gradually blocking up the turbo oil system, when owners shut the turbo off immediately after hard use with the turbo still red hot. This is the reason turbo timers exist and why most of us already know you should at least drive the car off boost for the last minute or so before you switch off.
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But they’re not ball-bearing, doesn’t that make them spool slower?
No. ‘Ball bearing helps spool’ is pure sales talk in reality. Even the owner of Xona Rotor admitted this HERE. There’s no friction regardless of bearing type with the engine running as there’s basically no contact; it’s all floating in pressurised oil. Don’t get me wrong, there is a small theoretical advantage, but this is tiny versus the actual things that affect spool on a turbo, ie wheel and housing design, not to mention all the external factors (manifolds, exhaust, mapping, etc etc) which all have a huge effect.
The main advantage is they can take higher thrust loads if all else is equal. Unfortunately, all else isn’t equal, but that’s a whole other story. Basically, don’t worry about it.
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Aren’t they ‘old fashioned laggy truck turbos’? My mate said they were...
This is a sure-fire sign of someone who’s talking total shit, either because they’re talking about something they know nothing about, talking from experience of a bad setup, or, which is quite common with tuners- Talking shit about them as they sell a different brand so don’t want anyone to buy one.
Fact is, commercial turbochargers, for any given age, tend to be some of the most hi-tech on the planet, as long as whatever technology doesn't affect long term reliability and is actually a true benefit rather than a sales tactic, as efficiency and reliability is more important to the commercial industry than anyone else, and will pay a far higher price than anyone else to get the best too.
Certain things they won’t have if it’s not needed and sacrifices reliability, but generally, for their age, commercial stuff make a lot similar age tuning parts look very low tech to be honest.

Having said that, of course a typical Holset isn't THE top technology, not at all, but the good ones are right up there, and when it tends to cost 50%, sometimes 25%, of the price of others, but performs almost as well and often lasts longer, it's no surprise they're popular for people for people without unlimited budgets, who know they can spend the saved money better on other more important tuning parts.
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Aren’t they all massive?
No. Holsets exist from tiny T2 size ones good for about 250bhp to giants good for about 10 times that. But as the most common applications we see are from large commercial vehicles, plus the fact most people use big ones as they want big power, and famous cars tend to be the big power big turbo ones, make the larger ones far more common than the smaller ones. In reality, it’s the middle sized ones that are most common, the REALLY big ones are rarer than the small ones!
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What do the letters mean after the name?
Like, some are HX35, some are HX35W etc?

I won’t bother talking about the earlier Holsets, but for he HX and HY series, W means internal wastegate. G means water cooled (Because most commonly used on compressed natural gas fuelled engines), and V means a variable geometry turbine.
For the newest range, the HE series, W still means internal wastegate, but WG is also used. V still means VGT, but VE is also often used, which means an electronic actuator for the VGT (but it can be used with a mechanical actuator still). Some HEs are called FG, which is non-wastegated housings, but some will have nothing.
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 My friend has a HX35, and I have a HX35.
His works great and mine is shit, why?

This is a common one, and happens on all types of turbos, but especially Holsets, and that’s because the name is simply a VERY vague description of the turbo type, and there’s countless variations of each. If I remember right there’s over 650 variations of HX35 alone!
HX35s all tend to have similar turbine wheel sizes, but even then is a few small differences, but can have very different compressors good for over 100bhp difference in peak power, and countless different turbine housing specs, from too small for most cars to way waaaay too big.
All the name will do is give you a rough estimate on the turbo size- Buying a car just because it’s a HX35 or whatever is a massive, stupid, mistake.
Even if you have the EXACT same turbo, that sure as hell don't mean two engines will perform the same! Mapping and almost every aspect of engine spec will massively affect both spool and power, far more than what turbo is fitted will, and SO many engine setups have terrible setups that aren't making the most of the turbo fitted.
If your turbo is performing worse than you expect- It's almost always you or your mappers fault!
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What A/R size is my Holset turbine housing?


Holset don’t use A/R, they, like Mitsubishi, KKK, Trust, and others, use cm2 to measure turbine housing size.
A/R and cm2 isn’t directly comparable, cm2 is a static measurement, A/R isn’t, but you can still get pretty close if you want to compare. On a HX35/GT35 sized turbine wheels, 12cm is generally accepted to be about 0.89 A/R, but the larger the turbo the smaller A/R any given cm2 would be the equivalent of, with 14cm generally being considered to be just A/R 0.80 on GT40/HX40/S300 sized turbine wheels, and conversely, on a tiny turbine a 6cm housing could still be the equivalent of A/R 0.80.
Because of this use your common sense, use your eyes, and do your research. A 25cm HX55 might sound like a super huge housing when you’re used to 9cm housings on HY35s, but a HX55 is practically twice the size and a 25cm housing is actually not that big.
You can use the housing sizes on other stuff as comparisons too. With most Subaru turbos using cm2, and Mitsubishi Evo ones also, you can compare those to the similar smaller Holsets.
And for bigger ones, well the famous Trust turbos used on countless big power Japanese cars used cm2 as well. The T88 34D, a 1000bhp capable unit, like an older fashioned version of a HX55, and often seen on Skylines, Supras, and RX7s, tended to be a 22cm housing, as was the 38GK version. The Trust T78, a 700bhp turbo, so HX40/HX50 size, but older fashioned, was generally 17 to 24cm housings. The Trust T67 turbo, similar to a HY35 in capability, but again, older design, also had similar housing sizes, 8cm and 10cm most commonly, but 12cm and 16cm was also used. Even Trust’s version of the TD04, good for ~300bhp, used a 8.5cm housing.

There's a common list of A/R to CM2 that goes around the internet, and it's spoken about and published by people who make out they're experts in the field, but IMO it hints at how clueless they really are, and it says this...

6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R
7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R
8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R
9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R
10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R
11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R
12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R
14 cm2 = 1.05 A/R
16 cm2 = 1.21 A/R
18 cm2 = 1.37 A/R
21 cm2 = 1.61 A/R


NO! Fuck no. As said, A/R vs CM2 totally depends on the turbine size, and the above is only about right for TD04 sort of size turbines.

In REALITY, it's more like THIS...
HE221W- 6cm- 0.47, 8cm- 0.60, 9cm- 0.68
HX35- 16cm- 0.98, 14cm- 0.90, 12cm- 0.80, 10cm- 0.65


HX40- 18cm- 1.05, 16cm- 0.92, 14cm- 0.85

HX52- 16cm- 0.85, 13cm- 0.73, 11cm- 0.60
HX55- 28cm- 1.42, 25cm- 1.26, 19cm- 0.96, 16cm- 0.78, 14cm- 0.71, 12cm- 0.62

And obviously, any turbos that are in between sizes of the above for their turbines, so HY35, HX32, whatever, you can extrapolate from there obviously...

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Can I use the internal wastegate?
On a diesel, yes, no problem. On a petrol, well it’s debatable. On the smaller turbos yes, defo. But for bigger ones, personally I’d not take the risk as they’re pretty small and you could/would suffer with boost creep. But oddly I’ve seen people use them, even on HX35s and HX40s, with perfectly good success; but I’d not take the risk, just go external.
As a side note, the 'G' versions, ie the water cooled ones normally fitted to CNG fuel engines, often have a VERY large internal wastegate- They MAY be perfectly fine to use on a petrol car without boost creep, but I can't confirm. Certainly better than most!
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My manifold is single scroll but the turbo is twin scroll, can I still use it?
Yes. Fitted to a twin scroll manifold will help spool, 500-1000rpm faster on average, but you can use a twin scroll manifold on a single scroll manifold no problem. BUT I’d highly recommend you port match it to suit, including smoothing off the divider so the exhaust gas isn’t hitting a flat surface, which is bad for both spool and power.
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When will the turbo hit full boost?
Well I’m going to talk about this in the next section, and this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but peoples obsession with ‘full’ boost is wrong. Some boost and full boost can be 2000rpm+ different from each other, especially on bigger turbos, but they’re often absolutely flying long long before full boost, and boost pressure itself isn’t a pure sign of power. 
On my Skyline RB20 for example, I originally had a Garrett GT2871R, and swapped to a Holset HY35 based turbo, which is good for about 150bhp more, a much bigger turbo. The GT2871 was at 15psi by 3500rpm, by then the HY35 based turbo was at about only at 8psi at the same rpm, but still pulling MUCH harder despite less boost. And while full boost (23psi or so) wasn’t until 4000rpm, it was making positive boost and accelerating nicely well under 3000rpm.

So who cares if your turbo isn't at full boost until 5500rpm if it's pulling hard as hell even at 3k? Not me!

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My turbo's meant to be good for up to 600bhp, but I only got 480, that’s shit?!
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That’s nothing to do with Holsets, that’s not even a turbos fault, that’s your fault for not understanding turbos and turbo sizing.
A turbo may be able to hit 600bhp maximum on the right engine, but without enough boost, or if you fit it to an engine far too big or with poor airflow, you’re not going to hit the peak numbers, possibly not by many hundreds of bhp.
This is the case with all turbos of all makes, in fact it’s worse for many such as these new Garrett turbos with tiny turbines and big compressors, so you need to know what the hell you’re doing.

The less boost you want to run for any given power, the bigger the turbo you will need.

The bigger the engine you have, the bigger the turbo, especially the turbine side, you will need for any given power.

The higher the rpm you plan to run, the more turbo you will want, more turbine especially, for any given capacity too.

HX35s and HY35s for example- Both are well proven at 600bhp on cammed 2ltr engines at 30psi+ boost. But go up to about 2.5ltr and I don’t recall seeing anyone manage more than 550bhp with one.

Honda engines that rev like fook is another example- You'd want to run a HX35 bare min on even a mild engine combo looking for barely 400bhp, purely as you've got an engine that wants to make peak power at best part of 8000rpm.

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How do I find out what the spec of a Holset turbo is?
Well, that’s not easy. This is the main reason, unless you’re a geek like me who can spot a spec from a few pics, you’re better off buying from a proven specialist like Compressor Racing who gives you the detailed spec with every advert.

In more recent times more and more sellers of Holsets have cropped up to jump on the bandwagon, and to be fair some of the pure lies some say to get a sale boils my piss. Beware, massively.

As already said, there’s literally hundreds of variations of each kind of Holset, so a name means little, and even the part number won’t help much as Holset themselves won’t help you, and details of components aren’t publicly available. Dealers have a part number database, but they guard it like their lives depend on it, and even this doesn’t have details like wheel and housing sizes; more of a use as a cross reference than anything else.
The main thing you can do, aside from a general estimation from what it is, ie HX35, 40, whatever, and this is usually the most important factor as generally modern Holsets are all good wheel specs, is knowing what turbine housing size you have.
If you look just inside the turbine inlet flange, you’ll see a number, 7, 12, 25, whatever. That’s the turbine housing size in cm2. If you can’t see that number, you usually can read it on the outside as a combination of the other numbers. Usually a number printed after the main part number.
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I’ve got a T4 flange Holset, but the bolt holes don’t quite line up with my T4 manifold flange? 
That’s because most Holsets, in fact most OEM T4 flange turbos, use T4i or T4 International, which is almost the same, but the bolt holes are like 3mm out. I never understand why people worry about this as it takes all of 10min to elongate holes ever so slightly so it fits, and many manifolds have bolt holes big enough that you don't need to at all, but some people do get confused...
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What about the VGT variable geometry turbos?
Are they any good? Can you use them on petrol engines?
Can the VGT be easily controlled?


In a word, to all of these, yes, and in fact they’re arguable the best variable geometry turbos in the world. Why are they the best? Well aside from using the usual Holset wheels etc which are great, and the fact VGT can speed up spool by as much as 1500rpm, they solve the main issue that people are wary of when it comes to variable geometry turbos- The fact they’re fragile, suffering from sticking vanes and unable to take the high exhaust temps of petrol engines.

Well Holset VGT works differently to most, as instead of a huge number of moving parts and fragile vanes, the vanes are fixed and instead the main body inside the turbine housing moves up and down to change the effective housing side.

This design change makes them far more robust than usual variable geometry turbos, to the extent it’s very rare to see the VGT system fail unless it’s due to a serious failure that’s also damaged the turbine wheel, and in these cases even a conventional turbo would have the same issues.

Does this mean they can be used on petrol engines? Well yes. It’s still rare, but has been done many times in the USA, and I’ve seen these turbos on 4G63s, 2JZs, Saab 4cyls, and even 13B rotaries. I helped build a Mercedes V8 using a Holset VGT turbo in fact, check that out HERE.

Controlling them is pretty easy too, but you’ve got a few options. There’s two kinds of Holset VGTs, ones badged as ‘V’ and ones badged as ‘VE’ but when it comes down to it things are similar. ‘V’ ones are the older style and intended from the start to be operated with an actuator. Just like most diesel actuators, they are vac actuators, but it doesn’t take a genius to change them for a pressure one, and in fact I’ve seen someone cut the top half (and half the valve!) off a cheap external wastegate, and weld it to the actuator rod, to make a very cheap but effective pressure actuator for one of these turbos that fitted all the OEM mounting brackets.

The most complex, maybe overly, but it is very clever, was the guy who used the VGT turbo on the Saab 4cyl. He used two actuators joined to a central adjuster wheel (I can’t think of a good word to explain it lo), one a vac one, one pressure, so while the pressure one opened it as normal, the vac one opened it slightly when off throttle and at a cruise, lowering cruise EGTs and increasing fuel economy- Overkill for most performance applications, but very clever!

For what it’s worth, despite using a very big VGT turbo, he had no issues spooling it mega fast and if I remember right found that he only needed to set the VGT to open by about 7psi, and beyond that it spooled super fast even with the VGT fully open.
You don’t even need an actuator, and in fact many don’t. One of the most effective ways of controlling a VGT, and is in fact a lot of OEM ECUs use this as part of the VGT control strategy, is to base it on pre-turbine backpressure. So as backpressure increases, the VGT turbine opens up to keep it in check at a sensible level. This is done in motorsport a lot too with conventional turbos, as it’s a very good idea, and something that would be done more often if cars had pressure sensors in the exhaust manifold etc. In fact you can see Ferrari doing it with their Formula One turbo engine HERE. Anyhow, this sounds complex, right? Well no, to do this is one of the most basic looking ways possible, so much so it looks like a bad idea, but done right works great, and that’s just using a spring. You simply are using a spring to hold the VGT in the fully closed position, and exhaust backpressure will, at whatever level the spring tension is, overcome the spring to push the VGT open. Of course this takes a little testing and trial and error, but it’s not tricky and we found the suitable spring rate almost straight away when we did the aforementioned VGT Mercedes AMG V8.

So, what about the ‘VE’ version? Well, the above options all work and are used, but as standard these are controlled fully electronically by a motor on the side of the turbo- E for electronic, see?

Anyhow, these electric motors, while expensive as hell to buy, work well, and while in OEM use are controlled the stock ECU, these days there’s loads of programs and hardware which allows them to be controlled easily.

BUT what if your VE hasn’t got the control box? Loads don’t. Well as said, you just use the conventional methods, it works just the same and in aftermarket use I think there’s a lot more VEs using conventional mechanical VGT control than ones using the electronics!
The only thing you need to do is weld/tap/whatever a bolt or piece of metal or whatever to the VGT arm to allow an actuator or spring to be attached to it, because as standard it’s a small toothed arm. 2min job really, easy.

Final thing worth noting with these VGTs are most the HE341VEs and HE351VEs use a funny turbine inlet flange, rectangle, but longer than a typical T3 one etc. That would normally be a pain in the arse, but they’re so commonly used in the USA that companies make and sell the flange, like THESE FOLK...

Also, if you want a sexy billet HE341VE (basically a billet VGT HX35), they’re available HERE.
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'Hybrid' or 'Custom' Holsets-
To be honest, hybrid turbos made from Holsets are pretty rare, especially as the big draw of Holsets is they’re so good, and well-priced, as standard, so there’s not a lot of need to make hybrids.
Having said that, they do exist and tend to be pretty good.
I’m very sceptical of hybrids that don’t even use a Holset compressor wheel, as the big advantage of Holsets tends to be they make big power for any given compressor inducer size vs many other turbos, so changing to a bigger wheel of another brand may not be the advantage it looks, no matter how shiny and billet it may be.
One of the most common hybrids is a HX35/40, so a HX35 turbine side and bigger HX40 compressor. This is pretty easy to make as many HX35 and HX40 parts are all interchangeable, so you simply fit the correct spec (not all are compatible, but that's another story) HX35 turbine wheel and housing to a HX40 and job done. I was surprised to find from a friend’s car running one he lost around 700rpm spool versus a straight HX35 though. Holset themselves make what is really a HX35/40 with most (not all!) versions of the HE351 being just that.
Some of the best hybrids, in my eyes anyhow, are the ones that don’t mess with Holsets wheel combinations and just change housings to more useful ones.  Things like the Bullseye Power ones that made HX35s direct fit to Mitsubishi 4G63 engines, Tim’s Turbo ones allowing them to direct fit Porsche 944s, and things like the Compressor Racing RS341 are good and well proven examples of this.
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Chinese ‘Holsets’
This is a weird subject, as people get really confused about something that’s not complex at all.
I see a LOT of turbos people legit think are genuine Holsets, despite not having a single Holset marking on them at all- That’s clearly not real. The exception to this of course is hybrid turbos using non-standard housings of course, but you should know that.
At the same time, I see a LOT of people where people question if it’s a real Holset, despite being covered in Holset markings etc. Don’t get me wrong, it’s ‘possible’ for fake ones to be covered in real branding, but in my experience of messing with, using, buying, and selling Holsets for over 15 years now, if it looks like a real Holset, it’s highly likely it is. The exception to this, well I don’t know for sure, but I’m sceptical, is Chinese sellers of what looks like legit Holsets. They may be real, some of Holsets biggest production facilities are in China, but I don’t like to take the risk when I can source them closer to home- Personally I won’t buy a Holset direct from China no matter how real it looks.

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​Who’s safe to buy off?
I think this can be summed up with “Any well proven company”. In the UK the Holset specialist seller from an aftermarket tuning point of view has always been Compressor Racing, they've been around for years, supplied thousands of Holset turbos to people.

On the other end of the scale, I have still been stung buying what was meant to be 'good used' ones from a certain Polish eBay seller who often has a lot of Holsets listed- In reality it was a badly worn one sprayed with silver paint to not look too shit in the pics. Mad thing is, he's still out there selling painted up old junk, and for barely cheaper than new ones either. Seems madness buying that shiz just to try and save a few quid.

Lately I've seen a few other overseas sellers promoting their Holset sales with some proper shady stuff. Half truths and flat out lies. And it's working too. Boils my piss...

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What about the unusual flanges some Holsets have?

Quite a lot of Holsets have v-band compressor outlets and while most have v-band turbine outlets so easy to sort by just buying a v-band off eBay or anywhere, The Holset HX2* and HE2** series have 4 and 5 bolt outlets that look like Garrett T/GT/GTX2* outlets, but aren’t quite. And a few turbos, the HE341VE/HE351VE especially, have an unusual turbine inlet flange too.

A lot of people make a big deal about this, but in reality it’s very basic, and in the grand scheme of fitting a custom turbo setup to your engine, it’s even less of a big deal. Holsets are incredibly common in tuning, especially in the USA, so all parts are available.
For the 4/5bolt turbine outlets mentioned- You’ll find various sellers advertising the OEM outlets for pretty low cost, but generally these aren’t exactly high flowing and may well not suit your engine bay layout. You’ll also find various sellers (non-UK but that doesn’t matter these days) selling the plain flange, which is a way better idea as it allows you to knock up a custom downpipe to suit your car perfectly. But these days, with engineering shops and CNC machines on every street corner (ok not really, but they’re not uncommon), getting a custom flange made up locally isn’t exactly tricky either.

For the compressor outlet flanges- Again you can just buy the adapters from various places all over the world, even from Cummins UK you can buy them for about £65, but in all honestly most don’t bother. Many simply spend 10min with a Dremel or similar machining the v-band lip down to just be a small lip for a conventional silicone hose and Jubilee clip. And the other option, and to be honest what’s done on most turbo setups even if the turbo does have a normal hose fitment outlet, is just get whatever suits you welded on to the compressor outlet. Removing the housing is a 5min job, welding the perfect outlet for you on to the housing is a 10min job for a TIG welder, and getting this right no matter what turbo you have is usually better than having a compromised setup just to use the stock outlet.

Finally, while I've already covered this earlier in the feature, the turbine inlet flange- Almost all Holset are just the usual T2, T3, T4, and T6 flange, though many T4s are T4i, which basically means 2 of the 4 bolts are literally half a hole, ie a few mm, further out. Many manifolds have big enough bolt holes to take this in to account, but it’s literally a few mins with a grinder or similar to oval two of the holes slightly, so no big deal either way.
The most common turbine inlet flange issue is for the very common and popular HE341VE/HE351VE turbos. These use a rectangle flange, but it’s neither T3 or T4, but thankfully as they’re so common and popular in the aftermarket, plenty of companies in the USA sell these flanges, and even adapters to go from T3 or T4 direct to this flange.
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The Turbos!
There’s a huge range of Holset turbos out there, countless ones over the decades, and there are many hundreds, sometimes well over 500, variations of each version, but here’s the general lowdown on each kind…
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The HX/HY series-
By far the most common type of Holset you’ll come across, and the equivalent of Garrett GT series, though in some respects actually more advanced and more capable.
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​HX20- According to Holset literature, the compressor, at least the biggest version, is good for 275bhp, making it similar to a Mitsubishi TD04, a turbo it shares a lot of components with. HX20s are very rare though, and I honestly don’t recall seeing one in my life to be honest, on an OEM or tuned engine...!
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HX25- Again, this shares many parts with the Mitsubishi TD04 series, albeit bigger compressor and turbine wheels than the HX20, and is capable of around 290bhp. Usually internal wastegate, T2 flange, and often with a ported anti-surge inlet, it’s a good and very compact turbo, but rarely used in tuning still to be honest. You can consider all of these HX2* series turbos higher spec versions of Mitsubishi TD04s, and can use them accordingly. HX25s spool fast even on 1.6ltr engines, for example.
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HX27- The biggest and most commonly used of the HX2* series, again very compact and T2 flange, it’s pretty much the equivalent of a Garrett GT28RS, and spools very very quickly even on 1.8ltr engines. Good for roughly 350bhp, it lives in the shadow of the more popular HE221W, which while slightly more powerful, is a similar turbo.
Check out the vid below of one fitted to a 1.8 20VT engine in a Mk2 Golf- It seriously moves for a little turbo!
HOLSET HX27 at 20psi- Mk2 Golf GTI
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HY30- Honestly, I'm unsure about these, as they are very very rare, one of the very few I’ve never seen in person. They’re likely good for ~350bhp or a touch more on the right engine, as HYs normally have the HX version compressor and smaller turbine side, somewhere between HX27 and HX30, so it could well be a great turbo. Pics I’ve seen seem to show HY30s as T2 flange, but I’ve never seen one in person to be honest.
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HX30- Quick spooling and compact T3 flange turbo. About the size of a Garrett T3, but certainly more capable and advanced than them. Good for up to 460bhp for at least one version according to Holset, but most versions you see available I'd personally say are capable of more like 360bhp or less. They are all T3 flange on the ones I’ve seen, from single scroll 6cm to twin scroll 12cm housing versions. They’ve often got an anti-surge compressor inlet, but not always, and there’s at least three different compressor wheel sizes that I’ve seen. Very fast spooling, I’ve seen 9cm versions spooling as fast as T28s on 2ltr engines, and making more torque for any given boost pressure too, though most don't make much more than about 350bhp.
Bigger turbine wheel than a HX27 or HE221 but generally capable of same sort of power levels.
Here's a YouTube video of a Golf GTI claiming 380 from a HX30, and it certainly doesn't look slow...
Golf GTI HX30 380BHP
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HX32- Very rare turbos, but very good, and capable of up to about 500bhp, limited by turbine flow. These are in essence Holset built HX30/HX35 hybrids, as they use a HX30 turbine wheel and a HX35 compressor wheel, albeit often the smaller versions of the HX35 compressor. They come in various forms, from 12cm twin scroll housings to 6cm single scroll and everything in between. They’re almost all T3 flange but some T2 as well. Spool is very fast, somewhere between a HX30 and HY35, and while these have always been considered somewhat of a holy grail ideal turbo for tuned cars, they’re that rare that I’ve not seen a huge amount of results; mostly people saying they’re very impressed with theirs!

Here's some HX32 Videos below...
RB20DET with a HX32 in a C32 Laurel doing a pretty badass burnout

In-car hillclimb action with awesome turbo sounds of the above RB20 Laurel

Astra VXR with 12cm HX32 vs Supercharged Civic Type-R


Astra VXR with 12cm HX32 vs 371bhp Astra VXR​
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HY35- This is one of my favourites of the Holset range, proven good for as much as 600bhp on big boost well specced 2ltr and under engines, seen as much as 540bhp at 1.5bar on fairly stock 1JZs, and very fast spooling for a turbo capable of this much power too- People have seen full boost by just 3000rpm on well mapped and well set up 2.5ltr engines.

In the USA these are most commonly found with a 9cm single scroll T3 housing, and in the UK/Europe mostly found with a 10cm single scroll T3 housing, but in the grand scheme of things 9-10 makes very little difference either way.
Compressor wheel wise, they’re basically the 7blade HY35 compressor side almost always. Turbine wheel size, it’s half way between the HX30/HX32 turbine wheel and the HX35 turbine wheel.

The now pretty famous Compressor Racing RS341 is, for all intents and purposes, a HY35 variation, and as a comparison, I had a GT2871R on a RB20, and swapped to an RS341. The 2871 spooled faster, made 15psi at the same rpm the 341 made 7psi, BUT it didn’t matter, as despite about half the boost pressure, the 341 made the car pull noticeably harder, and once boost was at the same level it was like night and day; massively more power. So yeah, while these spool fast, with bigger turbos there’s a lot more to performance than simply what boost pressure it hits at what rpm.
HYs have become pretty thin on the ground lately, but they’re still out there.
Oh, and a 7cm T2 flange HY35 exists too, albeit damn rare. These have slightly smaller compressor and turbine wheels than the normal HYs, in fact it’s surprising it’s not called a HX32, but that’s the huge variation with Holsets for you.

Check out these HY35 YouTube videos below...

2.8ltr Saab V6 with a HY35 making 480@wheels (so well over 500 fly) on stock internals.

My old RB20 R32 Skyline with a Compressor Racing RS341 running 1.5bar...

FWD Mk2 Golf road car, 1.8 20V running a HY35- 10.4sec quarter mile at 135mph!- Likely 550bhp+
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HX35- This is the best known and most common Holset on the tuning scene, and the equivalent to a GT3582R, with almost identical wheel sizes in fact. Spec for spec, same housing sizes, they actually seem to spool better- Have you seen a GT35 hit 25psi by 3500rpm on a 2ltr? I haven’t at least, but plenty of twin scroll HX35 setups have.

There’s an insane amount of variations of HX35s, 650 plus at last count. There are compressor inducer diameter sizes down to about 50mm (I’ve heard of smaller, but no proof), which would lower its power potential, but the most common ones, and the ones to go for, are the 54mm inducer 7 blade compressor, and the 56mm 8 blade inducer, both proven at 600bhp. There are rare 6 blade versions too, which theoretically should flow more for any given inducer diameter, and billet versions too, but seen no data that they’re capable of more.

Most have 82mm compressor exducer, but many later spec ones have a 76mm exducer, but it’s unlikely to affect peak power and seen no proof either way.

There’s a wide variety of turbine housings out there, but the best known one in performance terms is the 12cm one, though I’ve seen 6cm undivided T4, 8cm and 10cm divided T3, and many more. Generally 11cm to 16cm housings suit the majority of applications, with 11-12cm best for 2.5ltr and smaller engines, and 14-16cm best for larger engines. The oddball small ones,  8cm, 10cm, are great for spool of course, but don’t expect to be getting 500bhp+ from them, partly as the turbine won’t flow as much, but also because they tend to come with smaller compressor wheels too.

I’ve personally never seen a HX35 hit 600bhp on larger than 2ltr engines, but seen it on 2ltr and smaller engines many times, with the 4G63s in the USA hitting it most commonly, at 30-35psi. The most I’ve seen from 2.5-2.8s with HX35s is around 550bhp, and a little less on even larger engines.

Spool-wise, a 12cm on a 2ltr with a twin scroll manifold is well proven to see 25psi+ by around 3500rpm, which is fantastic for a turbo of this size. Using a single scroll manifold and a 2ltr I’ve seen more like 1000rpm slower spool, 4500rpm, but still no lag between gearchanges, and some, just not ‘full’, boost long before then. On 2.5ltr engines, the 12cm housing even with a single scroll manifold tends to be full boost by around 3500rpm.

Just to be confusing, there's a few 'HX35s' out there that aren't! They'd normally be called HX32s or HY35s really, but for some reason Holset called them HX35s! They had 35 sized compressors, but tiny HX30 sized turbines and 6cm or so turbine housings, often T4 flange. Awesome turbos, but not really HX35s!

This is a good YouTube video that shows spool with a twin scroll manifold and a 12cm housing on a well set up 2ltr engine-
HX35 on Mitsubishi 4G63 engine spool
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HX38- “Oooh, a HX35/40 hybrid” I hear you say. Yes, but unfortunately the wrong way around! This, on every one I've ever seen, is basically a HX35 compressor side and the bigger HX40 turbine wheel. Pointless/useless for tuned cars unless you want low power for your capacity. Avoid.

HX/HY40V- I’ve seen these called both HX and HY40s despite the same basic spec, but this is the VGT version of the HX40. Generally tends to be T4 flange, and pretty much the typical HX40 spec, just VGT.
I’ve seen very little info on this turbo, BUT going by the video below, it has no issues spooling up even on an ancient spec 2.4ltr diesel engine, in fact this is cool as fuck!

Mk1 Ford Transit 2.4 diesel running Holset HY40V!
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Holset HX40-
Effectively like the slightly bigger brother of the HX35. Good for up to 700bhp with the 60mm compressor inducer, though there are smaller compressors on many HX40s you see, with the 58mm is most common, and still good for 650odd. They come in T3 and T4 flanges, 14cm T3 is the smallest generally available housing, 16cm relatively rare but more common. Not a big step up in wheel sizes to the HX35, and the overall turbo size is pretty much identical too, so they're a good way of going another 100bhp over what a 35 can do without big changes to your setup.

Some badass engines run HX40s, as these videos show...

Audi TTRS engine race buggy making 700bhp with a HX40

BMW 4ltr V8 making 550bhp at the wheels at 0.9bar with a HX40
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HX50- HX50s come in a very wide variety of wheel sizes, from only slightly over 700bhp capable, to some just as big as the biggest HX55 wheels; pretty much 1000bhp capable units. They have a variety of turbine wheels too, most somewhere between HX40 and HX55, but some being pretty much full HX55 size, making them essentially HX55 turbos albeit in a much more compact frame- HX50s are externally only about 2/3 the size of a HX55, making fitment easier.
The hardest thing with HX50s is finding them with small turbine housings. 17cm and 19cm housings are the smallest I remember seeing, but they’re rare, and around 25cm is the most common size. For a larger engine, 3ltr+, or a very high revving engine like a Honda, these big housings aren’t an issue, and a 25cm housing is still a quick spooling turbo on a 4ltr engine, but it does make it tricky to find quick spool housings if you’ve a smaller capacity engine.
My friend is running a HX50 67mm with a 25cm turbine housing on his half-bridge 13B Mazda RX7, and it's making 600bhp at relatively low boost with a powerband as good or better than similar cars on the same dyno with turbos that cost 3 times as much...

Check out some HX50 videos...

Honda Civic with B18 engine making over 920bhp on a HX50!

Toyota GT86 running a 4ltr 1UZ engine and a Holset HX50 at 15psi- Smoke machine!
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HX52- Like a giant sized HX32 or HY35, the HX52 has the big boy HX55 sized compressor wheel, usually 65/66mm inducer, but a much smaller turbine wheel, smaller than many HX50 ones in fact, making for a very fast spooling turbo for its size.
In fact it's so fast spooling it's became popular on 1.8-2ltr FWD drag cars!
Unlike HX50s, HX52s always come with a small turbine housing, usually T4 flange, with 16cm the biggest most common size, 13cm being another and usually internal wastegate, and 11cm being the smallest and rarest; though I know of at least two variations of the 11cm housing, one T4i flange and one a weird flange. They take up more space than a HX50 as they have HX55 size compressor housings, despite much smaller turbine housings. Considering they’re good for the best part of 1000bhp when pushed hard on the right engine they spool fantastically well too- On a 2.9ltr, using a single scroll manifold, and the 16cm housing, 15psi comes at just 3750rpm- With a good twin scroll setup you’d likely take at least 500rpm off that, and then there’s the option of the smaller housings…!
I'd have no issue at all running one on even a 2.5ltr drift car, in fact I really wanna.

To make things even more confusing, in the last year or so of the HX naming scheme, Holset decided to badge HX52s as HX55s, despite having the small 70mm exducer turbine wheel and 11-16cm housings. So that's worth keeping an eye out for.

There's quite a few cool HX52 videos out there, and here's my pick...

HX52 16cm spool on a 2.9ltr VR6 engine and a single scroll log manifold.

HX52 16cm making 800bhp on a basic spec 2ltr 4G64 and cast manifold!

HX52 16cm on a M50 BMW engine sounding pretty damn awesome

HX52 on a SR20DET making 800bhp at the hubs
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HX55- This is the equivalent of a Garrett GT42 or BorgWarner 9180, the HX55 is capable of around the 1000bhp mark when pushed hard, though I’ve seen a couple of people claim 50-100bhp more than that. Housing wise, the smallest you commonly see is a 19cm internally gated housing, and then there is 22cm and 25cm non-wastegated housings also quite commonly found, and while most are T6 flange, T4 versions exist.
Most HX55s have v-bands holding both the compressor and turbine housings on, but there’s a less common version with a bolt-on turbine housing, which I’ve seen 22cm and 25cm T4 flange housings for.
For their size they’re impressive bits of kit, and on 4ltr engines like 1UZs they make serious power from just 3500rpm on even with the biggest 25cm housing, which is well impressive for a turbo good for 4 figure power numbers!

To make things even more confusing, in the last year or so of the HX naming scheme, Holset decided to badge HX52s as HX55s, despite having the small 70mm exducer turbine wheel and housing. So that's worth keeping an eye out for.

Check out these HX55 videos below-
833bhp at just 1.5bar  from a HX55 on a BMW M50 engine in a stunning E36 BMW

950bhp HX55'd 2JZ Soarer


R33 Skyline drift car running a stock bottom end 1UZ and a Holset HX55 25cm. 640bhp at the wheels at just 1.3bar, 600nm torque by just 3800rpm
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HX/HY55V- As with almost all V/VE Holsets, the HX/HY55V is basically just the VGT version of the HX55, with identical wheel sizes and so on. They’re usually T4 flange, with some HY55 versions coming with a twin scroll inlet, despite the housing not actually being twin scroll.

This is the turbo we used when we built the 'boot mount turbo' E55 AMG I helped create for Compressor Racing a few years ago. Despite being mounted 12ft away from the engine, with the exhaust going through restrictive silencers pre-turbo, no heat wrapping, and loads more things that slow spool down massively, it was on full boost by under 3500rpm, which nobody would've imagined for such a huge turbo mounted in the boot if we didn't prove it!

Click here for the video of the rear mount turbo E55 AMG.
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HX60-
These beasts, while many only physically a little larger in external diameter to the HX55, are rated at up to 1260bhp by Holset, and with tuned cars out there running them and making anything from 900 to over 1200bhp,  they're certainly not wrong.
Some of these I've had dealings with had directly interchangeable parts with HX55s, enabling hybrids much in the same was a HX35-HX40 hybrids, but I don't think that is the case for all of them.

Rather than waffling on, check out these YouTube clips...

Audi 5cyl making over 1200bhp with a Holset HX60!

RX7 making 900bhp at the wheels with a HX60

Volvo 850 making 950bhp on the dyno with a HX60

In car acceleration with the above Volvo 850- Insanely fast!
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HX80- Usually found on medium size fishing boats and similar as an OEM turbo to their giant engines, most HX80s are practically dustbin lid sized units, but slightly smaller units that almost resemble (the still huge!) HX60s, and HX80s have been seen on 1600bhp+ drag 2JZs, 5ltr+ V8s, and even 6ltr diesels giving full boost by around 3000rpm, they’re surprisingly usable considering their huge size!
This Supra on Speedhunters is rocking one of the more 'normal' looking HX80s...
www.speedhunters.com/2017/06/finlands-fastest-a-straight-line-supra
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HX82- The big daddy.  Basically a HX80 with an even bigger compressor, and just like the 80 it’s most popular in the extreme tractor pulling crowd. The HX82 is physically about the largest ‘normal’ turbo out there of any brand, as bigger things like found on trains and ships and similar might be turbochargers but they tend to be hugely heavy and bulky, and barely resemble turbos as we know them.
This giant size means they’re not only popular in tractor pulling, but have recently became the turbo to have for certain drag racing series where a single turbo allows a 200kg less minimum weight limit vs twin turbos, leading to world famous drag racers such as Larry Larson, Birdman, and Shawn Wilhoit, all going for heavily modified HX82 based turbos for their drag cars, and looking to make around 3000bhp!
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HX83- This is an odd one, and while I don’t know a huge amount about it. The ones I’ve seen have been a giant version of a HX38. What I mean by that is they had no bigger compressor than a HX82 or even HX80, but an even bigger turbine side. Many I saw even had cast iron compressor housings, so would weigh a ton. I don’t recall ever seeing a HX83 in a tuned application, and if they’re all like the above ones I’ve seen, I’m not surprised.
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HX85- I honestly don’t know much about these aside from they’ve got a very limited range of applications even as OEM, and they look much like the HX83 where the turbine looks huge without a particularly big compressor, 51cm turbine housings etc, making them unlikely to be chosen for any aftermarket use. The fact I’ve seen these for sale by tractor pull guys for far cheaper than HX80s, but also never seen one used on any tuned vehicle, even a tractor puller, suggests they’re probably to be avoided.
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The Holset HE Series turbos

The HE series is the successor to the HX series, and while in the most part are the same basic turbos with either minor changes, or simply renamed, some versions have cool new technology fitted to them.
​The main problem with the HE series is it makes the already vague HX naming system even vaguer!

In earlier HE series it was less of a problem, as the first digit was the general frame size, and the second was the general compressor size, so a HE211 and HE221 was the same basic size, but the compressor especially on the 221, was bigger. There’s a few examples of this on bigger ones, mostly VGT ones, where the compressor is fairly small for the turbine size, HE531 for example, but again, the numbers help signify that.

Unfortunately the newer HE turbos, things get super vague with turbos good for hundreds of horsepower different, all having the same name. HE200 covers all the small frame T2 flange turbos. HE300 covers everything from sub 400bhp to 600bhp+. What was HX30/HX32/HX35/HY35 and some HX40 turbos. HE400s cover what would’ve once been HX40s and maybe some of the smaller HX50s. HE500s are the biggest variety, as they not only cover all the HX5* range, but HX60s too, which are beasts!
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But while names mean less than ever, the turbos are better than ever, and the HE series are all as good as the HXs, or better. Good times!
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HE200/HE211/HE221-
The Holset HE221W is probably the first of the HE turbos to become known in the tuning scene, and not surprising too, as it’s one of the best T2 flange turbos out there, a hugely efficient turbo for its size.

A replacement for the HX27 with newer (and slightly bigger) wheel designs, it’s proven capable of up to about 380bhp but fast spool even on sub-1.6ltr engines; in fact I’ve seen them used as twin turbos on a 700bhp 2JZ- It’s a great little turbo. It spools like a little TD04, with 7psi+ by 2500rpm or less on a 2ltr engine, but unlike most small turbos, is still efficient at big boost- It’s still on the compressor map at 3bar!

​Even on a 2ltr Cosworth rally car using the tiny 34mm rally inlet restrictor that slows spool and reduces boost, it was capable of hitting full boost 750rpm faster than the original Garrett T3 (which is also capable of far less peak power). Not only that, but the engine made well over 400lb/ft at just 25psi boost, way more than other turbos make at the same boost, showing how efficient they are.

Common myth was they all had billet wheels, but that’s just not true, most don't in fact, and the cast wheel versions are to all intents and purposes just as good. Usually has a 6cm or 7cm turbine housing.
The HE211W is a slightly smaller version, the compressor map shows it’s capable of 32lb/min, ie about 320bhp, and seen them hit 25psi by 3000rpm and less even on a little 1.6ltr diesel. Most the ones I’ve seen have a 5cm turbine housing.

The HE200, well that’s generally one of the two above specs, usually are 211 spec, but could be either. Often the 211 version doesn’t have an anti-surge inlet, the 221 always does, but even that isn’t a sure way to tell, as the smaller ones do sometimes- I’ve owned anti-surge billet HE200s which had the 211 size wheels. They can come with billet or cast compressor wheels, and unlike the 221/211, don’t always come T2 flange; sometimes they’re all kinds of odd shapes!

There’s also a VGT version of these, which looks very promising for small capacity TDIs!

Here's a HE221W compressor map and some data from a HE221W on a  34mm restrictor Cosworth rally engine.
Here's a HE211W compressr map and a dyno graph from a old VW 1.6ltr turbo diesel in a Mk1 Golf running a HE211W...
Holset HE250-
One of the rarest, but if/when they get more popular, from the one I’ve seen at least, one of the best. These come in various specs, and are a middle ground that seems to replace the HX30, which no longer really has a purpose when the smaller HE221 can make more power! I’ve only personally owned one, and it was 11cm T3 twin scroll with compressor wheel specs I’d say were good for around 450-500bhp but with very fast spool. Quite like a HX32 or HY35, but far more compact, no bigger than HX30 size, but far more capable.
Others I’ve heard of certainly had smaller compressors, but still seemed like 400bhp+ capable turbos. One for the future I think!
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​HE300/HE341/HE351
This covers everything from (I think?) HX30 equivalent units, and certainly HX32/HY35 equivalents (Sometimes known HE341 or HE351, but some 341s are purely HX35 wheel size), and HX35/40 hybrid equivalents (Sometimes also known as HE351), but mostly they are the ever popular HX35 size.
Most have nothing drastically different in wheel design from the HX versions, though some have the same size but better designed wheels, and more have billet compressor than the HX versions do.
As with all HE's, the newest ones tend to just be called HE300WG or HE300FG, so you literally can't use the name for much, and you need to know the specs! In recent months I've seen HE300s that were basically HY35 turbines and big billet HX40 compressors, but also straight up normal HX35 spec turbos also called HE300s. Cheers Holset!

There are VGT versions of the above, the ones with V/VG/VE at the end, and as ever, they’re a similar design, just a VGT turbine housing. Generally the VEs perform to the same peak power levels as the non VGT versions, but they spool much sooner, up to 1500rpm sooner.
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HOLSET HE400 SERIES-
These are basically the successor to the HX40 series, but some, like all the HE turbos, have upgrades that make them closer in power capability to the next size up turbos in some versions.
HX40s seemed to max out at 60mm inducer compressors, but seen slightly larger on HE400s.
All the turbine wheels I've seen so far are normal HX40 sizes, but some have even higher flowing wheel designs, which is nice.
As ever, most are normal HX40 spec, but that's no bad thing as the HX series turbos are still up there with the best of them even today.
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HOLSET HE500 SERIES-
As with the others, these come in conventional and VGT form, and cover what was HX50s, HX52s, HX55s, and HX60s. Most commonly I’ve seen HX55 equivalent ones, but they have all kinds of unusual specs, from some turbofan style compressor wheels with heavily curved blades to others with REALLY big compressors, which make them more like HX55/HX60 hybrids!
HX55s always tended to be 67mm inducer maximum, but some of the HE500s I've seen have 73mm and even 76mm inducer compressor wheels capable of WELL over 1000bhp! Even the 67mm HX55s used to be able to be pushed to 1000, so these should be good for a whole lot more, hundreds...

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Holset HE800/HE851-
These are basically the artist formally known as HX80/HX82. Big! The one below has a billet wheel and what is a fucking TINY housing for such a big turbo, just 22cm! Could be amazing if you can find one in the right spec...
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H/HC/HT and ‘other/classic’ Holsets
There are a LOT of older Holset turbos out there, right back to things from the 1970s that look like antiques, and most of them are zero use to you.

I’m no expert on these as they’re old-skool and I tend to stick to the HXs and HEs, but I know a bit about some of them that are a little use to some of you.

HTs are reverse rotation turbos, ie spin the other way, and I’m not really sure if they’re meant to be the equivalent of the HX series or the older HC series, but I know they’re not meant to be quite as capable for their size as the HX series.

Probably the most use to tuned car owners, mostly as they’re still seen fairly often, are the H1 turbos. H1Cs are very similar in spec and performance to the HX35, with the ‘big’ H1C in particular being basically a HX35, but even the ‘small’ version (smaller compressor wheel) is meant to be good for well over 400bhp.

The H1E is like an older version of the HX40, and again comes in varying wheel sizes. The small version isn’t great as it has pretty much a HX35 sized compressor, but the ‘big’ H1Es are practically HX40s in all but name.

The turbine housings on the H1C is a direct swap for HX35s, and the H1E for HX40 ones.
The others I’m not going to bother going in to as I don’t know enough about them and you’ll rarely see any other good ones suitable for anything other than maybe tractor pull stuff to be honest!
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POWER IS NOTHING WITHOUT CONTROL. WELL, MOST THE TIME..

5/31/2018

 
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If you just want to smoke your tyres, do skids, burnouts, and powerslides, fuck yeah, have all the power you want and forget the rest, and that can be a whole lot of fun in a RWD car, mega fun.
But massive wheelspin in a FWD is pretty much super gay and not fun at all, and with 4wd your car is either insanely powerful or something's set up very wrong.

Fact is, if you want to actually go fast, it's about way more than just power, and a lot of people don't seem to be able to grasp that fact.
I'm not on about handling and stopping either, that's a whole different subject, I'm purely on about getting this power to the ground- Traction!

You see a lot of people, a hell of a lot of people unfortunately, really chuffed with their car, saying how 'fast' they are, as they smoke the tyres in 4th or whatever just by going full throttle.
But, err, if your car is wheelspinning, it's not going to be that fast until that stops, and in a lot of cases cars with half the power but decent traction will be leaving you for dead.
I'm not sure if these people truly believe their car is quick and have never actually raced or timed it to realise that their wheelspinning mess is actually nothing special, but practically everyone with a tractionless mess act like their cars are rapid when they're not.

One of the most common things you see is people really proud that their engine spools fast and smokes the tyres constantly, while also slating cars with with similar power but far less torque and low down power (due to bigger or no turbos, less capacity, more rpm, etc) as 'dogs' at lower rpm just because they haven't got a ton of torque.
But the fact is, thanks to the more sensible/usable torque levels they have for the amount of grip they have, these 'dogs' are often far faster in reality.
FWD and tuned diesel owners are worst for this, but grip affects almost everyone with big power on road tyres.
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The bullshit talked about grip, or lack of, works the other way too, as the people constantly say FWD cars are useless with more than 200bhp/250bhp/300bhp (depends who you're talking to) are wrong as well.
Yes FWD is useless even at 200bhp with tons of torque, shit tyres, and an open diff, but even with 500bhp+ I've experienced road legal FWD cars that put all the power down from 2nd gear on, and with rear wheel drive cars you've got even less excuse to have no grip. Fuck, if you've got 4wd and big traction issues then you either need to sort your shit out or something is broke.

So yeah, having no traction means your is gonna accelerate slow no matter how powerful your engine is, and here's the various ways to help fix that...
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                             YOUR TYRES!                         

The number one way to improve your traction is tyres. And as blatantly obvious as that is, people still ignore it, and I'd say there's far more big power cars on skinny normal road tyres wheelspinning everywhere, than ones running decent tyres and actually going fast.

The difference in traction under acceleration between the same size tyre, one a normal but decent brand road tyre, and one a road legal semi-slick, is massive.
I've experienced, many times, cars go from wheelspin in 4th with good 'normal' tyres to full traction most the time even in 2nd with a set of semi slicks of the same size.
This, providing there's no standing water, is actually the same in the wet too; it's only standing water when semi-slicks can be a bit crap.

People's reason/excuses for not running decent tyres like this is always stupid too; either that they're rubbish in the wet, which I don't really agree with anyhow, or that they don't last long, which is a false economy when they instead have a powerful car that's a complete waste of time and not actually very fast as it has no grip.

Tyre size is another big one- People rarely even fit the widest tyre they can get under their standard arches, never mind go as far as modify their arches to fit wider ones for decent traction.
This is also usually ridiculous as they end up spending ten times the money doing that will cost on other pointless upgrades. In fact it's that daft that people will fit the biggest wheels they can fit under the arches as they think it looks cool, but then fit way skinnier tyres just to help wheel fitment! You can't have it all, and what do you want? People to think your car looks cool, or for it to be as fast as you tell everyone it is?

Finally, tyre pressure- It can make a big difference to traction, and as long as your car isn't hugely heavy you can often run lower than the typical 30-35psi most people have theirs set at.
It's certainly worth looking at, especially as it's pretty much a free mod, and in drag use people often run barely 10psi depending on car and tyre type, and while this has an adverse effect on handling, on some lightweight cars some people still run under 20psi on the road and circuit, so it's worth some experimentation to see what suits you.
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                   YOUR DIFFERENTIAL(S)                

So many “Oh my God my car is soooo fast, my wheels are spinning in 9th gear” type people are wrong. Only one of their wheels are spinning, and their car isn't fast at all, as it's got an open diff or a really crap factory LSD.
Just like decent tyres, the massive difference a decent LSD makes to traction over an open diff is hard to imagine unless you experience it. It really is night and day, and in my book worth every penny. A hard used performance car with an open diff, even a pretty low power one, is not for me; I hate it.
There are lots of performance advantages of a decent LSD, but we're talking about getting your engines power down in this feature,  and that's where a limited slip diff really is most obviously felt.

With an open diff power just goes to the wheel with the least grip, which means one wheel quite easily spins up while the other has no power going to it all, and the end result of that is no forward movement and just pretty much sitting there spinning one wheel like a dick.

With a decent LSD, power is forced to both wheels regardless of what has the most grip, which not only of course massively increases traction for that reason, but even WHEN the wheels are spinning, especially with a plate-style LSD, as both still have the power going to them rather than just one, there's still a lot more traction and therefore forward movement even when wheelspinning. 
It's hard to imagine unless you've experienced it, but the amount of acceleration even when wheelspinning hard when you've got a good aftermarket limited slip (or locked/weldeds/spool) diff can be pretty incredible on some cars.
Please bear in mind though I saw a 'GOOD' LSD, as quite a few factory LSDs are barely better than being an open diff, especially once they get older, so don't just think because your car has a LSD as standard that it's effective- Often far from it!
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          YOUR SUSPENSION GEOMETRY           
When it comes to getting power down, maximising tyre contact patch is key to making the most of what you have.
The most obvious factor here is to minimise camber on your driven wheels, BUT if you're really serious about putting the power to the floor it gets a bit more complex than that.
Most suspension designs have dynamic camber change, ie when your suspension lifts or squats, the camber angle changes. Some suspension designs change more drastically than others, so exactly how much you need to cater for this depends on your cars own setup, I can't advise you on exact numbers, but if you're serious about traction, you got to take this in to account.
Upon acceleration, a cars front end naturally lifts, generally reducing the camber angle of the front tyres, and the rear end squats, increasing the camber angle of the rear tyres. Because of this, on FWD cars a small amount of negative camber is often no bad thing as it can turn to zero camber as the front lifts slightly, and on RWD cars, zero camber, or even some positive camber, is often used on cars looking for maximum straight line grip, as this counteracts the natural negative camber increase that happens as the back end squats.
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           YOUR WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION              

As mentioned in the geometry bit, when accelerating, the front lifts and the rear squats, and of course, you want to have as much weight over your driven wheels as possible, so why not do something about that?

Thanks to the rear end naturally squatting, RWD cars have it easier when it comes to grip, as the whole car is pushing down on the driven wheels, but regardless of this fact, moving any weight you have to the rear end is never a bad thing to help maximise acceleration grip; unless your car has so much rear end grip it instead does huge wheelies and tries to flip over that is...

On FWD cars the weight distribution issue can be much more important. The front end of a car naturally goes light upon acceleration, which is the last thing you want when it comes to grip, so anything you can do to keep weight over the front wheels the better.
Obviously this is no easy task, as you're limited to what you can fit under the bonnet, but this is why many FWD drag cars fit the fuel cell up front, and some people have even tilted the engine forward a little to help with the weight distribution.

Weight distribution is more than front and rear though- It's left to right, and this can have a major effect on traction due to how much force is put on each tyre. I've seen cars get major improvements in traction my making the corner weights over each driven wheel to be as equal as possible, therefore equalising their grip; to the extent some have said it was more effective than when they changed from an open diff to a LSD!
This is something which can be done by physically moving parts around the car, as well as small changes to ride height if you have coilovers. To even remotely accurately do this you need a set of corner weights, but this is something many tuning shops have and are more than happy to do for you.

While in general adding weight is never ideal, if traction is your main goal and you're still struggling with other methods, adding weight to the very front of a FWD car via thick metal undertrays or weights behind the front bumper, or to the very rear of a RWD car, either with weights behind the rear bumper or added to the boot, is sometimes done to push the driven tyres as hard in to the road/track surface as possible.

Finally, weight transfer from suspension movement. As I've explained, you need to keep the weight on the driven wheels as much as you can, and that generally means allowing a RWD car to squat the rear and lift the front, and conversely trying to prevent a FWD cars front end from lifting and the rear from squatting.

For FWD cars this tends to mean stiff rear suspension to help prevent squat, and various clever ways to prevent front suspension lift (which unfortunately depend on your stock suspension design, so I can't list them all here).
While jacked up rear ends are also sometimes popular, most the fastest FWD people tend to agree it's no big benefit, if at all.

For RWD cars they tend to want to allow the front to lift without lifting the wheels clean off the ground, and allowing the rear end to squat. A fairly soft rear end is a clear start point, and on the front things like soft and relatively long travel suspension, often with no anti-roll bar, allows the front end to naturally lift but also can help prevent the car lifting its wheels, which, while looking cool as hell, gives you zero steering, and potentially massive problems when you come back down to earth!
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           LIMITING YOUR TORQUE LEVELS        

Last, but DEFFO not least, I'm going to talk like torque is a bad thing. As sometimes it is!


This is probably the most ignored factor when it comes to traction, as who'd want to willingly give up performance? Only a mad man, surely?
Well there's two things here. Despite the myth diesel and V8 owners like to loudly shout at every opportunity, torque doesn't really win races, and if you're spinning you ain't winning, so you're better off having less torque, so less wheelspin, but more acceleration.


This tactic is common on modern turbocharged drag and track cars, and is part of the reason so many are so fast and controllable in recent years, with things such as boost by gear (ie lower boost in lower gears), boost by speed (similar to boost by gear but works it out with speed) and boost by rpm (ie mapped to the boost rises slower and more progressively than they naturally could, to prevent a big spike of boost spinning the wheels), all easily configurable on a good ECU, as well as clever traction control systems that can limit wheelspin by slightly lowering torque when wheelspin is sensed without killing the power and slowing the car down like many factory systems.


The thing is though, while you may think these are pretty hi-tech and extreme tuning methods, this is actually way more normal and common than you many think. Many factory turbo cars, even some that are 25 years or more old, come with boost by gear or rpm as standard. Yes, many cars have it set, from the factory, that their boost pressure is lower in lower gears and/or rpm to reduce wheelspin, all controlled via the ECU and factory boost solenoid.


Even without clever ECU tricks like boost by gear or other traction control methods, a good engine spec and a good mapper can massively improve traction simply by creating an engine with a good power delivery.
Huge torque, or just sudden increases in torque, when you've not got the grip to use the aforementioned, is pointless  and will prevent you reaching your performance goals, but are easily avoided.


A big part of the reason Prochargers and Rotrex units (ie centrifugal superchargers) are so popular among V8 drag racers and FWD track cars, is because of the linear power delivery they give, with no huge torque spikes to spin the wheels, and a very progressive increase in power all the way to the rev limiter, making for a tractable, controllable, and predictable car with massive peak power levels but far less wheespin than a typical car of the same power equipped with a positive displacement supercharger, nitrous, or a typical turbocharged setup, purely as they tend to give huge and peaky torque curves.


Other engine spec changes can help this too on traction-limited cars. Increased capacity rarely increases peak power, but certainly increases torque, so should be avoided if you're already struggling for grip. Small turbos at high boost means big torque and eaiser to drive, but a bigger turbo at lower boost for the same power can often give a better power delivery for a grip limited car, which is also kinder on the engine too. Using rpm to make power means less torque needed for any given power level, which again can actually be a useful thing if you're struggling for grip.

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And that's it for now folks! Hope you've enjoyed this feature and found it useful, and of course show anyone else you know who may get a use out of it too.

I've actually got about 10 other features in progress right now, just, thanks to life getting in the way (I have some very kind Patreon donators, but the total is still very low so I certainly don't make a living doing this, or even close!), I've just not finished the others yet, but I do these at any opportunity I can, so please, watch this space!

CUT THE BULLSHIT- THE TRUTH ABOUT TURBOS! - MY TOP TEN!

3/4/2018

 
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Since the death of car magazines and internet forums, and the rise of YouTube videos and Facebook groups, the amount of misinformation and pure bullshit about tuning is higher than ever. It's fucking unreal what gets said and how often, and it's making me a bit disillusioned with the whole scene, but it's also made me want to clear a few things up lately, as reading pure shit constantly is doing my head in.

Probably the worst piles of bullshit I hear is about turbos, so let's clear some stuff up in ten very important points.

​Apologies for the swearing and less than sexy layout of this feature, but this is me saying what I think and explaining some stuff rather than trying to look impressive...


No1- IF YOU'VE NO EXPERIENCE ON THE SUBJECT, PLEASE, SHUT THE FUCK UP
This is the worst thing of all, not just on turbos, but everything. Seems most the people who shout the loudest with their advice are the people who know the least.

On a certain car group I'm a member of that's mostly turbo related, the two main people who reply to peoples questions seem to have zero experience and reply with complete and utter shite almost all the time, but comment so often and so confidently, to anyone who didn't know who they were, ie most people, they'd sound like people who know what they're on about.
Shit like this, on Facebook, on YouTube, and in magazines, is what's killing the scene for me most of all.

Unfortunately a lot of tuners these days will give iffy advice too, either to suit their agendas and sales, or because they're clueless on that exact subject but won't ever admit to it as they have to be seen as the all seeing gods of tuning to their customers. Fucking minefield out there.
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No2- TURBO SIZING ISN'T THAT HARD-
One of the most common things I see is people (never with any experience of the turbo/engine/anything) going "OH EM GEE, THAT TURBO WILL NEVER SPOOOOL" just because it's not a fucking tiny little turbo, even if the engine is pretty big.
Don't just guess if something will spool. Either go from your past experiences or do a bit of Googling for proven results and you can make a VERY educated guess by looking at other cars and engines and turbos, even if neither are exactly what you're using.

Unless you're using a horribly specced mismatch of a turbo, or some ancient piece of shit, both of which are very rare these days in all honesty, turbos of a similar size/spec all spool similarly enough or any given size to make a very good guess on how it will work.

Wondering how a 900bhp turbo will spool on a 4ltr for example? Well about the same as a 450bhp turbo does on a 2ltr. Simple. It's not that hard. (THIS is one I see loads of with Toyota 1UZ engines- You can spool a fucking HX55 on one EASILY, but people fit turbos more suited to engines almost half the size, and wonder why they make crap power!).

Wondering how much faster a twin scroll turbo setup of any given size spools vs a single scroll one that's otherwise pretty much the same? Roughly 600-1000rpm faster in general. 2Ltr single scroll setups with ~600bhp capable turbos like GT35s and HX35s are full boost by around 4500rpm typically (seen 5000+ on GT35s with wild cams and the biggest housing though- Shite!), and proven as low as 3500rpm with a good twin scroll setup and 12cm HX35s for example.
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No3- BALL BEARING TURBOS DON'T MAKE VERY MUCH DIFFERENCE TO SPOOL-
Fact. Despite being one of the most common myths. I've even posted a video of the owner of Xona Rotor saying the same thing, and he sells the fuckers. It's a mix of sales speak and bullshit that says it makes a big difference.
A Holset HX35, a Garrett GT35, and whatever other similar 600bhp turbo with similar size turbine wheels and housings spool about the same IF all else is equal. This is fact, no matter how many times pricks say one is "An old diesel truck turbo" and one is some kind of superduper thing. It's bollocks.

​In theory it helps, and it does, but by a really small amount, an amount you often can’t even feel. Wheel design, housing design, manifold design, exhaust design, cam spec, mapping, ALL SORTS, all make a way way bigger difference, ie a really noticeable difference, vs it being BB or not.

​The REAL advantage of BB turbos is they can take higher thrust loads for better reliability in extreme use. Though that's all relative to how good/bad the non-BB version would be of course- My friends GTX2860R Gen2 has massive thrust (ie in out) play and it's only done a few thousand road and dyno miles, albeit at 33psi boost.
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No4- JUST BECAUSE THE TURBO IS CAPABLE OF A CERTAIN POWER DON'T MEAN YOU WILL MAKE THAT POWER...
Lots of people think this, and it ain't gonna happen. This isn't just the case with running a turbo at very low boost, but most commonly people buying, say, a 600bhp turbo, running 1.4bar or some medium amount of boost, then wondering why they've not got 600bhp (Hint- Most the time you'll be at more like 2bar or more to truly max a turbo out unless it's a very small turbo for the engine size).

These days this issue is coming about thanks too all these tiny but very flashy turbos with funky compressor wheels rated at big power but still running teeny tiny turbine wheels and housings (ie a huge mis-match for most engines, and more sutied to twins on insane power GTRs etc). Things like the smaller Garrett GTXs and so on are big ones for this, as they might be rated at whatever power, but they're not gonna do that aside from on a pretty tiny engine, or as twin turbos on a medium size engine (Such as twins on a Nissan GT-R V6 or Toyota V8), as they've not got the turbine flow to max out on larger capacity engines. Ever notice the truly powerful engines have actual big turbos with big turbines? Yes, that’s because you need it.

What goes in has to come out of an engine, and while better designed wheels help, size is still king.
Take the Garrett GTX2871R rated at 560bhp, or even the new G25-660 turbo rated at 660bhp. They both have tiny 54mm turbine wheels, smaller than a stock little CT12B off a 1JZ VVTi. I don't care how fancy a turbine wheel is, with that size, you're either not going to max out one of them on anything but sub-2ltr engine at mega boost, or your pre-turbine backpressure will be astronomical.

​You'd not make even half of many of these turbos rated power if you was daft enough to fit one to a larger engine, as it's as much about turbine flow as compressor.
Even looking at Garrett's own turbine maps shows it's no magic- The GTX2871R turbine with the biggest housing flows about 21lb/min, the G25-660 one with the biggest housing flow about 24lb/min. Both less than a GT30R turbine does with the biggest housing at 26lb/min, despite the GT30R rated at a good 100bhp less.

So even IF you make the power, you'll be making it with a far less happy/healthy/reliable engine than if you did with a bigger or 'older' turbo that had a bigger turbine wheel.​
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No5- TURBINE SIZE IS KEY-
While little turbine wheels and housings help spool, and are fine on suitably small engines, what goes in has to come out, and the smaller the turbine wheel and/or housing, the less can come out, which means less power per psi boost, and less engine reliability.

When chosen right, this is just a trade-off, you just give up a bit of power for a bit of spool, with no reliability issues, and still ballpark correct power.
In fact if going for the maximum power and torque but fastest possible spool, you can build an engine like they would a rallycross engine, that's been specced to handle big boost and big backpressure from a relatively small turbine side with no issues and be loving life. Unfortunately most engines aren't specced like that.

But more often than not these days, people think running the tiniest housings and wheels they can find for any turbo they think can do the power they're after is the right thing to do with no bad consequences, as they have zero understanding that turbine flow matters. Because of this the result is often way too small, so they often struggle to make the power they do, and even more often have reliability issues due to the massive pre-turbine backpressure.

Pre-turbine backpressure is the no1 killer of turbo engines (behind shit mappers!), and both killers are pretty invisible to most, and other stuff gets blamed for the problems.
The less turbine flow you have, the harder time your engine has to stay alive. Heat issues and far less resistance to det, are the biggest problems, problems which people tend to first realise when they're shitting out head gaskets and pistons a lot, or needing to run race fuel when other similar engines with bigger turbines don't...

There's plenty of examples where there's two similar engines, running similar power, but one is highly strung and less reliable than the other, just as it runs a smaller turbine side in an attempt to get faster spool.

Unless you've specced the engine to suit, it's simply not worth trying to gain a tiny bit of spool considering what you give up just to get that.

And remember the basics- The bigger the capacity, the bigger the turbine flow needs to be for any given power. What will make 600bhp on a 1.8ltr might have a turbine side too small to even make 400 on a 3ltr...
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No6- LAG VS BOOST THRESHOLD-
What most people call 'Lag' isn't lag, it's just not being in the boost threshold.

The rpm where your turbo can't make boost, that's being out the boost threshold.

Lag is your turbo response when within the boost threshold.

You put your foot down at 2000rpm and it don't come on full boost until 4000rpm isn't lag, that's being out the boost threshold.

You put your foot down at 4000rpm and any delay then is LAG.

But how much 'lag' is there on even slightly modern turbos when truly within the boost threshold? Even fucking big ones? Some vs being naturally aspirated, but in real world terms, very little, not enough to win or lose a race unless you're rallying.

Even something like a Holset HX35 on a 2ltr with a single scroll manifold (Bad idea btw when twin scroll often spools it 1000rpm faster). Boost threshold would be fairly high, full boost not until 4.5k, but do you think there's any real delay between planting your foot to the floor and fucking off down the road like a rocket when you're within the boost threshold (ie 4.5k+)? No. Pretty much zero, even for things like drifting etc.

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No7- BOOST = TORQUE.
If you're grip limited or haven't got the strongest engine or transmission out there, torque can do more harm than good, BUT if that's not an issue, torque is always fun! Despite this, a lot of people seem to be confused why they haven't got lots of it despite having lots of power.

The answer is mostly boost. The biggest thing to make high torque numbers is boost pressure, and many cars, especially at 1bar or less, even the smallest fastest spooling turbos, can feel almost like a powerful N/A engine with most the power up top and fairly low torque, but the identical engine with another half a bar of boost can feel like a totally different engine with ridiculous amounts of low and midrange torque.

The lower the rpm you can make boost, the bigger the torque numbers tend to be for any given boost level, but the more low down torque you have, the harder it tends to be on engine internals, especially conrods, so it's a double edged sword in some ways!

Good example of boost giving torque and transforming how and engine feels was the old 13B rotary in my RX7. It was a large street port engine running a fairly small HKS T04E. At 0.8bar, despite being full boost by 3000rpm, wasn't really "fast" until at least 5.5k when the ports really came in to their own, then it screamed up to 8k; feeling much like a tuned N/A engine. At 1.5bar though, despite peak power not feeling much different up at 8k, it was a rocket ship with a ton of torque right from 3k to the limiter now. It was tons more fun at 1.5bar and easier to drive faster, but if I didn't have the massive grip to cope with it, it would've been slower to be honest, but still, more fun...!
I like boost!
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No8- LEARN TO CHANGE FUCKING GEAR-
Unless you've made a tragic and totally mismatched engine or gearing setup, there is pretty much zero excuse to be caught off boost unless you have no idea how to fucking drive and change gear.

Putting your foot down at low rpm then blaming the turbo for you not going fast is fucking lame. No, it's your fault for being at low rpm. Your fucking fault. Even if you got a tiny turbo, you'd be going a lot faster if you had the sense to be at a higher rpm.
Even if you got a standard turbo on a petrol car that is on boost by 2500rpm, you'd accelerate a lot faster if you made sure you was in the right gear so you was already at 5k+. I've got an Impreza at the moment, 2ltr, and a tiny little TD04 that even 1.6s spool easiy. Yes it spools at low rpm, but to do fast I'd still drop a gear or two from cruising rpm so I'm at at least 5k to accelerate as hard as I can, as I'm not stupid.

You could have a GT25 or a GT35 on your 2ltr, and while the GT25 will be faster at 3k, it will still be slow, and but would be FAR faster at 5k. But the GT35 will be FAR faster at 5k regardless.

God help you if you drive a highly strung N/A engine- Any engine even approaching 100bhp per litre, even with fancy variable valve timing to help low down power, the real powerband starts at at least 6000rpm on non-turbo lumps, and by then even fucking massive turbos are at full boost.

You ever wonder why so many 'fast' cars look so average when the owners give them some beans? It's because people are fucking useless and don't understand how to change gear, that's why! Most owners are a waste of a good car...
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No9- WHAT YOU GIVE UP LOW DOWN, YOU USUALLY GAIN UP TOP, SOMETIMES MORE! -
People fucking obsess over low rpm performance, and think a bigger turbo gives a smaller powerband, so would don't want to run one as they think it won't have a decent power band, but on modern engines, that actually rev, this is usually bollocks, and it's often the opposite.

Most modern turbo engines safely rev to around 7500rpm, some 1000rpm more, and even the lowest safe revvers these days are no more than 1000rpm less.

But, despite this, most modern turbo engines make peak power at least 1000rpm lower than their safe rev limit, so there's room for more if you can make it worth it...

A typical fairly small turbo engine making like 150bhp per litre, so a 300bhp 2ltr etc, makes good power from 3000-3500rpm and peaks out 6000-6500rpm. So you've usually got a 3000-3500rpm power band.

A typical bigger turbo engine, say 250bhp per litre, so a 500bhp 2ltr etc, makes good power from about 4000rpm, but tends to pull hard with no let up until 7500-8000rpm. So you've got a 3500-4000rpm power band, ie the same or fucking BIGGER, not smaller.

Even if you only pulled hard to 7k, and in all honesty you've probably done something badly to have an engine that spools that late but dies out that soon, you've still got the same size powerband as a smaller turbo, just higher in the rev range, and you also happen to have 100-200bhp more!

You can make a fucking mess of things, with small downpipes, shit manifolds, badly matched turbos, stupid cam specs, and so on, and make a powerband smaller than it needs to be, but these days you'd have to fuck things up good and proper to make a powerband much smaller with a larger turbo unless you go to a REALLY fucking big turbo.

If things are specced and built right, you can have a fucking big powerband. Even with some 600-650bhp turbos, on 2ltr engines, with good overall specs, good twin scroll setups etc, you see cars making big power from 3500rpm all the way to 8000rpm, that's a massive power band, way bigger than any factory turbo engine, but while also having about TWICE the bhp per litre of even the hottest factory turbo engines these days.

This sort of shit is especially good on Honda engines that love a good rev. When N/A they don't really come alive until 6k+, but rev to 8k+, but provided you can drive you still won't ever fall out the power band. Even a fucking gigantic turbo is on full boost by time the N/A car is in the powerband anyhow, so even with insane, really fucking insane power, with a huge turbo, you'll still have a bigger powerband than stock...
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No10- YOU DON'T 'GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR'
Turbos are all kinds of prices, from sub £200 eBay specials to £2000 swanky ones, and everything in between. But is a £2000 ten times better than a £200 one? Or even a £1000 twice as good as a £500 one? Personally, I'd say no.

Cheapy eBay ones, well that's where it's real a gamble. Personally I think a lot of these under-perform as the typical type of person that runs one is a clueless cheapskate so the car is an unreliable underperforming piece of shit in general due to the mistakes and lack of care/knowledge from the owner, rather than the turbo being truly shite, but still, it's a gamble and not one I've ever made personally yet.

Another thing you see for a couple hundred quid, is used and sometimes new turbos off trucks and so on. This is FINE if you know exactly what the fuck you looking at, but most people don't. People see "HX35" or "GT40" or "T4" and think it will be ideal for them, not realising there's a 1000 variations of almost every turbo type on the planet, and 90% of them are not suitable for you.
The vast majority of turbos, even ones on some of the more powerful tuned engines on the planet, are actually commercial/diesel based, but that sure as shit don't make them all suitable! Most big OEM commercial/diesel turbos will have far too big a turbine housing to be much good for the fairly small engines we tune, so a random purchase just because it's called a HX35 or whatever could well be a total waste of money unless you know what you're buying.

For somewhere between 400 and 600 you can often get brand new GOOD/CORRECT spec Holset or BorgWarner turbos from a specialist who knows about these turbos. Personally, for my budget and needs, this is what I go for, and what I feel is the best value for money.
Are they the very best turbos on the planet? No, of course not,  if money was no object I'd have some swanky as fuck £1500 Precision or GTX or EFR or whatever. But for 99% of us money is an object, and from experience, comparable size for size on wheels and housings, both either twin or single scroll, the performance difference between a decent Holset or Borg and a swanky one for 2 to 3 times the price, is pretty minimal.
More importantly however, and the money saved on the turbo can be spent elsewhere (better manifolds, exhaust, cams, mapping, whatever) to make the performance better than any turbo alone will.
If you have the cash to make everything on the car perfect, and can afford spending big bucks possibly yearly when you need to replace a broken turbo, fuck yeah I'd get the expensive one as it's a little bit better, but spending loads on a turbo but then having pretty average/crap spec other bits as you've not got the budget for it all, is fucking stupid IMO.

And now, top dollar turbos. Yes, they are the best, defo, but they're also expensive to buy and fix, often most of the cost of buying a new one, so you need to be able to afford it short and long term. Top dollar turbos tend to not be no more reliable, arguably less sometimes- What you're paying for is performance rather than longevity, so make sure you can afford the upkeep.
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A good example of a lot of the things I've talked about in this feature was the RB20 engine build I did in my R32 Skyline.
Back when I did that everyone said RB20s were shit, unreliable, didn't spool turbos, even shitty little ones that barely make 300bhp, didn't make power, etc etc.
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Anyhow, long story short, this good choice of parts, good choice of what to spend my fairly low budget on, and good turbo sizing, made for a RB20 that was making positive boost by under 3000rpm, full boost by 4000rpm, pulled hard to 8000rpm limiter, and made 470bhp at just 1.5bar on pump fuel, and would've easily made 550 with more boost- Which it was capable of with no det, if only I didn't have shit coils at the time of mapping that missed occasionally above 1.5 (we tried at up to 2bar). Totally reliable even with years and years of hard use too.


So faster spool, more power, wider powerband, and more reliable, than 99% of RB20s, especially back then, with 3 times the budget and running flashy turbos, and the difference was simply buying/picking/making the right bits.
​If I'd have had the budget for even flashier turbos and stuff it would've been even better, but this shows you better off with a correct overall spec than the usual totally random guesswork spec with a 1500quid turbo bolted to it like most.


Here's a YouTube video on the whole build if you give a shit...​​
So yeah, I think that covers most the typical turbo bullshit I keep reading and seeing on YouTube. Hope you liked it, make sure everyone you know in to tuning sees this too, and hopefully some bullshit might stop getting said so often.

Plenty more things people should shut the fuck up about, so there may be more of these soon...

​Stav

THE INTERNET ALWAYS TALKS ABOUT THE '1580BHP' PORSCHE 917/30S, BUT I THINK ONLY ONE EVER WAS...

1/9/2018

 
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You can't read anything, from Wikipedia to 'respected' car publications without them mentioning the “fact” that the insane Porsche 917/30 CanAm cars had '1580bhp' or '1580bhp in qualifying trim' or similar. But personally, I don't think that's true at all.

​The 5.4ltr twin turbo engine was INSANELY fast, zero doubt there, and the claims of 1000bhp+ in qualifying trim I certainly do believe. The fact the car weighed under 900kg was also was a big part of why the cars were really mind blowingly quick- Especially bearing in mind this was 1973, long before most of us were even born!

​BUT do I think the CanAm versions ever made this so called 1580bhp so many quote these days? No.
I think this is yet another case of half-truths from a long lost past getting mixed up, and now being talked about like reality. And after speaking to others who are some of the few people that I do trust what they say when it comes to things like this, they agree.

​But ONE 917/30 DID run at this power, I’m 100% sure of that, but never in CanAm!

​The CanAm series was cancelled after a season of the 917/30 obliterating the opposition, leaving some incredible cars with no series to race in, so Porsche decided to use it to go for the world speed record for a closed circuit, at Talladega Speedway.

​6 months of development later, and the car had one big change that made it unlike all the other 917s- It now had INTERCOOLERS.
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Look at all other pics of the Porsche 917/30s, old pics or even the cars today- They didn't run intercoolers at all! Pure hot air.
BUT for this speed record attempt they wanted more power and performance than ever before, and a big part of that came from two large alloy intercoolers at the rear of the car...
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THIS is where this '1580bhp' story comes from IMO. But the CanAm race cars? With no intercooling at all? No, they wasn't as powerful as this, even in qualifying. Hundreds of bhp less in fact, same as  comparing any engine at significant boost levels with and without intercooling.

​For what it's worth, the car did brake the record, averaging over 221mph through the whole lap, going well over 230mph at times, and that's STILL a record at Talladega to this very day.

​So yeah, next time you see or read about 917/30 CanAm cars having a supposed 1580bhp, well, you know a bit more about the reality of it now.

​Here's a couple more pics of the intercoolers on this one-off spec car for you too...
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A fairly short one this time, but a good bit of mythbusting and something very cool most of you have probably never seen.

​Hope you enjoyed this one, and as ever, stay tuned with more coming on here, the Facebook Page, and the YouTube channel.

​And please, if you enjoy what you see and want this to carry on and hopefully grow, please become a Patron of StavTech and receive exclusive bonuses for doing so too!

Cheers
​Stav

THE MOST INSANE E30 BMW M3 EVER BUILT- STAV-FACT*

1/6/2018

 
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You may think the title of this feature is a big claim, but I'd say it's fact, and in fact this car is FAR crazier than what 99% of people who know this car even think it is!

​As you may have seen on THIS recent post on the Stav-Tech Facebook page, I personally think, especially from an engine tuning point of view, 80s and early 90s Rallycross is THE most insane motorsport there ever has been, even more than Group B rallying.

​BUT the thing is, it's all pretty unknown to most current tuning fans, and there's VERY little detail out there that explains how crazy the cars were- Even most retro rallycross fans know very little about the cars back then. I've asked these 'fans' many times what engines were in certain cars etc, nothing complex, but people rarely even know that much!
​I’m sure that if only people today realised how insane these cars were, they'd be more legendary than even Group B cars are, and I'm determined to find out the details for YOU guys.
While they're pretty unknown to most, their specs and their performance are exactly the kinds of things you love, and totally relevant to your own tuned cars of today.

​Anyhow, the first car I've managed to source the long-lost info of is a car that's always been my favourite rallycross car, despite even myself not knowing that much detail about it, and it's this- Arild Martinsen's E30 BMW M3...
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I'm not a massive E30 M3 fan normally if I'm honest. I've driven a few, standard and modified, and while I think they're cool cars, they've never been a car I've wanted to own, but this one, well shit the bed, this one is literally my DREAM CAR.
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​Well why? Well, before I give you all the details, I'll let this absolutely incredible video (From 30 years ago!) below do the talking, check it out...​
Watched it yet? Did you say "Holy shit!" and "Fuck me!" loads of times while seeing that 700bhp four wheel drive E30 M3 fly around the track, sideways everywhere, accelerating like a rocket, and chucking flames out the side exit exhaust? Well yes, that's the pretty normal reaction, as that thing is flippin' bonkers.

​Funnily enough though, that's one of the VERY few videos out there of this car, as it actually wasn't hugely successful in rallycross, as while it was insanely fast and generally awesome, it just didn't have the traction to match. But it's performances have made it a favourite with many to this day- Including me!

​The thing is though, that video is pretty much as far as most people's knowledge of this car goes, and it was only relatively recently I'd even seen an engine bay pic of the thing myself.
But as I love the thing, and I knew you lot would too, I decided to do some serious research (Not just Googling, as there's fook all on the net about it- Believe me, I've looked!), which has enabled me to do this feature you're checking out right now.

​Starting with the engine under the lightweight Kevlar bonnet, the common story is it's a modified E30 M3 engine, ie the S14B23 2.3ltr 4cyl lump, fitted with a turbo off a BMW Formula One car.
​Well, that's NOT true, in fact it's WAY wilder than that!

​The engine is in fact the BMW M12 race engine, ie an engine that's never been in any production car, and has been used in it's various forms and capacities, in Touring Car Racing, Formula 2, and was also the legendary 1.5ltr turbo BMW Formula One engine from the 1980s that was alleged to produce as much as 1400bhp in qualifying form.

​This particular version isn't the 1.5ltr F1 lump, but is a modified version of the 2ltr turbocharged lump used in IMSA racing in the USA, used first used in the late 70s BMW 320 Turbo IMSA race car, making 650bhp at 9000rpm, then used in 1985 and 1986 in the BMW/March IMSA GTP race car, making 800bhp at 9000rpm.

​Here's some pics from the engine in an original BMW 320 Turbo IMSA car...
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Clear pictures of the later IMSA GTP engine are harder to find, especially as the engine was hidden under bodywork at the rear, but here's the car and some spec...​
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After the GTP car stopped racing in 1986, Arlid Martinsen, with the help of BMW Norway, managed to source one to use in his insane new rallycross build for 1987, and here it is...
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Looks like it was made to be there eh! Fits lovely. Here's some closer up shots...
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What we have here is, as said, an M14 IMSA GTP lump, 2ltr, heavily turbocharged of course, and in the spec in Arild's E30, it made 650bhp at 2bar boost, and was capable of 2.5bar boost if he wished, which although never measured, was without doubt going to be 700bhp+..
​Internal spec was pretty typical as you'd expect for a full-on race engine, though one particular thing to note was Titanium conrods- Now that's flashy.
​In 1987 the engine was 2ltr built by a famous Norwegian engine builder, but word is (from a good source too) in later years a 2.3ltr version was built for him by a Swiss engine builder.
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As the pics show, it featured a big air-to-air intercooler, carbon fibre inlet plenum, twin scroll tubular exhaust manifold (everyone ran twin scroll back then- Madness not to as it really helps spool), HUGE single external wastegate (same one they used on the F1 etc engines), and a BIG single Schwitzer turbocharger (Schwitzer are now what's called BorgWarner Turbochargers, and they actually invented the ETT Extended Tip Technology compressor wheels before they became BorgWarner- In fact the entire BorgWarner S-Series of turbochargers, and therefore the majority of parts in SX, SXE, and EFR turbos too, use what was originally Schwitzer turbo parts).
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Yep, Jubilee clips and rubber hose at 2.5bar boost... ;)
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Perhaps what's MOST INTERESTING, and different, in fact pretty much unknown to most people these days, is this car ran FIVE throttles! In fact, so did the insane 1400bhp Formula One version of this engine too.
​So yes, I can hear most of you already... "Five throttles? What the fuck are you on about? It's only got four cylinders". Well, do you want to play "Spot the throttles" on the next pic? Check it out...
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Spotted them all? Well, it's not easy, but they're there! The first four are in the typical place for a race engine- Ie it's running individual throttle bodies, one per cylinder, right at the inlet ports of the head. So where's the 5th one? Well, look at the throttle cable, it comes over the strut brace, to the ITBs, then continues forward somewhere and disappears. But to where? Well look at the bottom right. As well as a big cone filter, what's that in front of the turbo? Yep, throttle number five!

​Confused? Well I better explain then eh, that's what Stav-Tech is all about after all.
Well, it's a form of anti-lag that was used before anti-lag as we know it existed. And while it's not as effective as what modern ALS can potentially be (ie full boost all the time), and has issues (unless you have a specially modified turbo, you'll be sucking oil in to the compressor side badly when off the throttle, filling the entire inlet system with oil and making the exhaust smoke badly for a start), but done right it really is very effective- It was used in Formula One after all.

​How does it work? Well, in essence it's the same as when you put your hand over the inlet on a vacuum cleaner, blocking the airflow. What happens? You can very audibly hear the motor speed up as it's doing less work, that's what.
​On a turbo, the compressor side is the equivalent of the suction fan on your vacuum, and the turbine side is the equivalent of your vacuums electric motor.
​With no airflow the fan/wheel has nothing to do, it's literally spinning in a vacuum doing no work at all, no air to push, and therefore the motor/turbine can turn far faster for any given power input to it (ie the electricity on the vac, or the exhaust gas on the turbine).
​On a vac it serves no purpose, BUT on a turbo, if it's spinning far faster when off throttle, it also gets up to speed far quicker when you're back on the throttle; in fact potentially it's already at the required speed!
​This is exactly what modern anti-lag does, ie keeps turbine rpm as high as possible even when off throttle, just done in a totally different way.

​In related news, I want to test this setup for StavTech, as while it's got issues, A- I think I may have a solution to that, and B- I want to see, and show YOU, how effective it is!

Anyhow, back to the car...
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While as I mentioned previously, details on these Rallycross monsters is scarce, but thanks to one of the top motorsport photographers from back then, the legend that is Eddi Laumanns (who took many of the pictures in this feature too!), I got hold of a feature on this car from a German car magazine when it was first built in 1987, and it has some VERY interesting details, in fact some of them can only really be described as pretty fucking insane.

The car was tested in the feature by Jochi Kleint, works rally driver for Opel, Ford, VW, and others in his career, and driver of the Golf Bi-Motor, the twin engine Mk2 Golf that VW entered in the Pikes Peak hillclimb in 1985, 1986, and 1987, with as much as 650bhp!

​In the feature Jochi not only says the car feels at least as fast in a straight line as the Golf Pikes Peak monster, but he says it's very tractable, no need for 1st gear even in tight hairpins, and FULL BOOST is by just 4000rpm! A ~700bhp 2ltr turbo engine, making peak power at 9000rpm, but full boost by 4k! That's a 5000rpm+ power band, ie HUGE, far far more than 99% of cars even today, and this was 1987.
​Like I've said before​ you can have all the new technology you like, but a correctly specced and set up engine even with very old spec parts will still wildly out-perform most stuff.

We've pretty much covered engine performance, so to finish this section off, and to go nicely on to the next bit, here's a great pic of the underside of the car, showing the big intercooler and 4inch exhaust system...
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 Anyhow, as bonkers as the engine is, the TRANSMISSION is probably at least as wild!
​For a start, the gearbox is by possibly the best known brand from rallycross- Xtrac. What makes this special, especially for 1987, is not only are they ridiculously strong and capable of handling huge power and abuse, but they had in-car adjustable front to rear torque split, which on this car was meant to be between 28F-72R, right down to 50F-50R.
​In the magazine testing Jochi stated he felt the car was fastest at 40F-60R.

​The transmission had another setting too, again selectable from one of the buttons within reach of the driver, and I don't know if this was a 1-off for this car or a feature of other Xtrac transmissions of the time, but it's deffo the first time I've ever heard of it- It had a BOOST OPERATED four wheel drive!
​Yes, you read that right. One of the settings this car had made the car 100% RWD until boost pressure hit 3psi (0.2bar), and then the 4wd would kick in! Clever as hell, especially 30 years ago!
​In theory I can imagine an advantage on turn-in off throttle to eliminate understeer, as chances are this car had a pretty serious plated LSD front diff, but according to Jochi in the magazine feature, he felt it was faster when in permanent 4WD mode.

​Away from all that madness, the clutch was a Sachs triple plate item, the front diff was based on the E30 325iX setup, the rare factory 4wd version, and the rear end and diff was full Group A E30 M3 setup. This is a pic of the rear end actually...
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And here's the front suspension setup..
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The interior of the car was pretty sparse as you'd expect from a race car, but notice the bank of switches, most of which within reach of the driver to adjust the trick 4wd system settings, not to mention the all important boost pressure.
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For cooling, the car had what has become a bit of a trend for drift cars and even some Time Attack cars in recent years, and that's a rear mount radiator, and you can see the holes and ducting for it in these pics...
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As well as the radiator, there was two other things in the boot of this car, two VERY unusual things, something to mental that if it wasn't for me reading the words in this very sensible and technical German magazine who tested and reviewed the car when it was brand new, I'd be 100% they were joking...

​It had the alternator and A MOPED ENGINE in the boot! Seriously! It really says that! It says it has a small moped engine mounted in the boot that has the sole job of spinning the alternator, which in turn gives the electricity for all the trick parts this car runs. Crazy!​
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So, I've already mentioned that, despite it being absolutely incredible and hugely spectacular, this car wasn't actually very successful in rallycross.
​
According to Jochi Kleint in the feature, the car was almost undrivable as it simply had TOO MUCH POWER for the tyres and suspension to handle, even with the trick 4WD system, and he felt on loose surfaces a well-sorted 200bhp FWD Golf would be as fast if not faster.

​The feature also says the owner/driver, Arild, was having to change tyres after every race, which wasn't normal for rallycross, and was due to the combination of massive power and running hugely soft tyres in an attempt to get decent traction.

​There's another alleged issue too, which does tally up with the fact the car always seems incredibly tail happy, and it's said in recent years his son has talked about the car and stated the 4WD system or the front diff at least wasn't actually working like it should, making the car far more rear-bias than it was meant to be.

​Either way, win or not, the car has become a bit of a legend and deffo my fave car, and even Arild himself is said to be incredibly surprised people now, 30 years later, still talk about the car. He will probably be a lot more surprised if he sees this feature!
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.ANYHOW, that's about it for this feature on this insane and amazingly interesting car, and I hope you've liked reading it as much as I loved writing and finding out about it.

​There's a LOT more incredible cars from this era of rallycross, and as long as you guys want to hear about them, and as long as I can find out the long-lost info about them, you'll be seeing more features like this in the future!

Also, please, if you liked what you see, and want to see a lot more, want to see and read exclusive content and even get help on your own project, help Stav-Tech grow to bigger and better things by becoming a patron of the brand, giving whatever you feel it's worth to you, simply by following this link- ​www.patreon.com/stavtech.

Of course, don't forget to check out the StavTech Facebook and YouTube channels too, as I regularly post great stuff on both channels, so don't miss it!

Cheers!
​Stav
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    Hi, I'm Stav...

    You may or may not have heard of me, but I've spent the last 20 years working full-time in the tuning scene, and the last decade or so writing for various car magazines.
    I'm probably best known as 'Stavros', ex-DepEd of UK tuning magazine Redline (RIP), but I've also worked for countless other mags on a freelance basis, FastCar, Banzai, Japanese Performance, Fast Ford, Audi Tuner, Performance BMW, BMW Car, and many more.

    Unlike most people who work in automotive media, I've no degree in journalism (hence my average grammar skills!), but unlike most, I really, truly, am hugely in to it rather than just faking it to pay the bills, it's a huge part of my life- My hobby is building and driving stupidly fast cars, simple as that.
    ​
    Because tuning has been my job and my hobby for so long, I've experienced and learnt and incredible amount, good and surprisingly bad, a lot of these things that totally go against conventional thinking/rumour too, and as I constantly get asked for advice by tuners and tuning fans, I thought maybe I should have an official outlet for my knowledge, and that's here...

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